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By Tamia Nelson February 7, 2006
Much of canoe country may be snow covered, and
its lakes and rivers locked in ice, but that's certainly not true everywhere. From lowland
swamps to mountain
lakes, and down broad rivers
to the sea,
southern waters are ice-free and awaiting exploration. But as every
experienced paddler knows, explorers have to portage as well as paddle. Even
if a trip lies over open water
or along a lazy river, there's still the launch and take-out to contend with.
To be sure, most of us groan when we think about portaging. Boats are awkward
burdens at best, and the lightest of them grows heavier with each step. Packs
gain weight while you walk, too, pounding you down as you plod along. The
trail itself — if it isn't crisscrossed with logging slash or windfalls
left over from the last microburst — is all too often littered with loose
cobbles. And sometimes it heads straight up, climbing over a ridge on a 100
percent grade. Or maybe two weeks of steady rain has turned it into a wallow,
where millions of mosquitos wait patiently to bleed you dry.
Sound familiar? I'll be it does. Most of us have been on the Portage to
Hell at least once. If not, we've seen the video. Still, such bad days are
the exceptions, not the rule. And you can find bliss on the portage
trail. It's easier than you might think. Sometimes all it takes is an…
Attitude Adjustment
I won't tell you that portaging is a walk in the park. It can be hard work.
VERY hard work. But so can paddling into a strong headwind. Yet a swampy
portage lingers in our memories far longer than a windy crossing. Why?
Attitude and expectation, mainly. We think our boats should carry us, not the
other way round. Portaging isn't just strenuous. It's unnatural — almost
a violation of the rightful order of things. Of course it isn't, really. Canoes and kayaks
are defined by their portability, at least in part. And walking along a
forest path can be fun, even with a load. Backpackers do it for pleasure,
after all. Moreover, rest stops on the trail are opportunities for exploration
in their own right. Sure, we paddlers are out there for the waters, but that
doesn't mean we have to ignore more pedestrian pleasures, does it? A portage
trail is a great place to make the
acquaintance of the local birds, for example — a field guide and a
pair of binoculars
will repay their small weight many times over. (But be sure to protect your
binoculars from a dunking under way.) No go? Are all the birds too flighty
or too shy? Then get to know the trees,
wildflowers, fungi, or
rocks, instead. They won't run out on you. And don't just look once and
then walk on. Make use of your sketchbook,
try your hand at painting, or
bring your journal
up-to-date.
Is yours a family trip? Then take the opportunity to open your kids' eyes
to the ongoing serial drama of life in the wild. And
give their natural curiosity free rein. Kids are full of questions and eager
to learn. (Well, they are up until the age when TV and video games have made
real life seem impossibly boring, anyway.) Have them pace out
distances along the trail. Introduce them to the view of the landscape as
seen on a topographic map. Give then a compass and
guide them in understanding the magic of the north-pointing needle.
So much for mind games. What about our bodies? Most canoeists and kayakers
enjoy using their muscles, obviously — otherwise we'd all be driving
jet-skis — but a paddling workout is a little one-sided. On the water,
the lower body mostly goes along for the ride. Portages are a chance to
stretch our legs. Then again, if you're out-of-shape below the belt-line (and
many otherwise fit paddlers are), a long portage may be more of a stretch than
you want. This isn't a problem for everyone, though. If you regularly cycle to
the put-in, your lower extremities will most likely be up to any challenge.
The same is true for runners, climbers, and hill-walkers. But what if you're
not a mountaineer, a jogger, or an "amphibious"
paddler? Then you probably ought to prepare. In fact, all paddlers,
whatever their state of training, need to exercise care to avoid…
Problems Down the Trail
A sprained ankle is nobody's idea of a good time, but it's never less
welcome than on the portage trail. Good
footwear is a must. And your shoes must fit well, too, since blisters are
high on the list of nuisances-to-be-avoided. Wet trails demand special care
and (often) special footwear, into the bargain. In the past, I've used the
snug-fitting, knee-high rubber boots known as "wellies." They
weren't pretty, but they worked. I found them comfortable throughout long days
on the trail and rejoiced in having dry feet. But some paddlers think wellies
are too hot in summer, and others need more support than rubber boots provide.
In any case, inexpensive wellies are now hard to find. Alternatives include
high-tech overshoes, waterproof trainers, and "amphibious" sport shoes. Many
paddlers even use all-terrain sandals. Experiment on day trips near your home
to see which of these suits you best.
Got you feet and legs ready for the long haul? Good. But there are other
hazards waiting along the trail. Biting flies
looking for the proverbial free lunch, for instance. However stoic you are,
it's hard to bear their frenzied attacks when you're trapped beneath your
boat. What can you do to protect yourself? Wear a head net, roll down your
sleeves, and use an effective repellent. Or all three at once. A warning: The
bloodsuckers have numbers on their side. Try as you might, you won't escape
their unwelcome attentions altogether. But you can fight a successful holding
action till you're back on the water. That's enough.
And speaking of long sleeves and head nets, don't expect them to be
comfortable in mid-summer. In fact, on the hottest days, they're sometimes
worse than the bugs — and they're not without hazards of their own. Heat illness
is an ever present danger when it's 90 degrees in the shade and you're
sweating up a steep trail. So be sure you stop often to rest in the shade, and
drink before you're dry. Thirst is a
dangerous thing. While you're at it, remember what happens to mad dogs and
Englishmen who go out in the midday sun. A wide-brimmed
hat and sunscreen will provide some welcome protection when you drop your
boat at the end of the trail and jog back for the rest of your gear.
Ah, yes. Gear. On a portage, you've got a starring role in a new production
of…
Burden and the Beast
A hint — you're the Beast, and even on well-planned trips, your boat
and baggage are
the burden. The cure? Organization. Consolidation. Intelligent weight-paring.
And the ruthless elimination of nonessentials. A few specifics:
Packs need to be balanced, too. Shuffling down the trail with your back
parallel to the ground is bad news. Some folks manage to carry a large pack on
their back and a smaller one in front, threading their arms through the
shoulder straps of both packs. Not me, however. I prefer to carry all
the load on my back, often with the help of a tumpline
or packframe.
If you opt for the tumpline, though, be sure your neck and shoulder muscles
are up to the job, and get your doctor's OK first if you have any history
of back or neck problems.
Of course there's more to portaging than preparation and planning. There's
also…
The Trail Itself
You scout
rapids, don't you? It pays to scout portage trails, too. You can get a
head start at home, simply by using your head. Whether you're planning a Big Trip or a weekend
adventure, find all the trails along your route on a topographic
map before you leave for the put-in. Then look for trouble spots like
steep grades and soggy lowlands. A good
guidebook — if it's been revised recently — can add detail to
the picture, as can fellow paddlers who've been there before you. Ask around
at paddling clubs and Internet forums. But no map or guidebook can tell you
everything you need to know, and no paddler, however observant, can tell you
what a trail will be like in two weeks' time. Conditions change. Logging,
storms, forest
fires, and beaver dams
can alter a familiar landscape overnight. Be prepared. Often it makes sense to
leave your boat at the trailhead and take a load of gear over the portage
first. If you think you might be walking into trouble, it's best not to have
80 pounds of canoe on your shoulders when the ordure hits the oscillating
blades.
"Leave your boat at the trailhead." This brings up the twin issues of
courtesy and security: On well-traveled routes, don't leave boats or gear
where they'll impede another party's passage down the trail. That's simple
courtesy. But what if the other party is bent on something other than passing
through? What if they're up to mischief? It can happen. Unfortunately, a
few canoeists and kayakers are thieves. And how can you…
Stop a Thief?
You have three alternatives: a good lock, a sharp eye, or skillful
concealment. In other words, hide your gear, post a guard, or lock your boat
(a bicycle cable lock works well). In most places, at most times, none of
these will be necessary. But if word of mouth (or a still, small
voice) warns you that you may have problems, it's wise to take
precautions. 'Nuff said? Maybe not. After all, featherless bipeds aren't the
only thieves you need to worry about. Wherever bears are on the prowl, it's a
good idea to hang any unattended food packs. It also pays to keep a weather
eye on the wind. I'm sure I'm not the only paddler who's watched
helplessly while a canoe or kayak was snatched away by a stray gust. And in
canyon country, an airborne boat can travel a very long way before it comes to
rest. That really could be the start of the Portage to Hell!
"No one ever drowned on a portage." What paddler hasn't heard this at one
time or another? And it's true, or mostly true. (I've walked portages where
drowning seemed a real possibility, I admit. Mercifully, they're rare.) Still, that's not
enough. Like the voyageurs before us, we continue to risk our boats — and
our lives — to save a few hundred steps. After all, it can't happen to
us, can it? Well, the only honest answer is Yes, it can. Nemesis is
never idle. But there's some good news, too. Portaging doesn't have to be an
ordeal. You can find bliss on the portage trail. And when you do,
you'll be carried away.
Copyright © 2006 by Verloren Hoop Productions. All rights
reserved.
Carried Away!
Finding Your Bliss on the Portage Trail
tamia@paddling.net
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