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By Tamia Nelson April 26, 2005
The River ran high and hard under a brazen sun. I
clambered out on a rocky promontory above the lip of the falls and looked upstream.
The strident voice of the hurtling water reverberated in my ears. Suddenly, I saw
them a whole flotilla of creek boats bobbing downriver. I'd come for the
waters. They'd come to run the falls. One by one they eddied out at the
little island that divides the stream in the last seconds before it takes the final
plunge. Unfolding themselves from their tiny boats like butterflies emerging from
brightly colored chrysalises, they made their way over algae-covered boulders to the
brink of the drop. There they convened an earnest assembly to scout the best way
down.
While they looked at The River, I looked at them and their gear. Apart from the
radical designs of their boats, the most striking thing was the paddlers'
surefootedness. They stood on rocks just inches from the lip of the falls. Rushing
water surged over their knees, yet none of them tottered, slipped, or fell. How did
they manage? I'd waded rivers all my life, but I'd never have dreamed of attempting
what they were doing. Clearly, it was time for me to rethink what I put on my feet.
My standard river footgear had long been old-fashioned Converse high-tops worn
over wool or neoprene socks, depending on how cold the water
was. This combination, which I whimsically
christened the "dynamic duo," worked well enough, to be sure. It gave me
adequate traction much of the time while keeping my toes warm most of
the time. But I kept looking for something better. Other boaters wore neoprene socks
alone. Still others preferred low-cut running shoes to high-top sneakers (and
sometimes lost one or both when they took an unexpected dip in a
rapids or dropped into a mud hole
on a portage trail). Paddlers who seldom ventured out on fast-moving water wore
pacs of the type popularized by Leon Leonwood Bean in the early years of the
twentieth century, or else they donned wellies,
the close-fitting rubber knee boots favored by the British field sports fraternity,
the so-called "Landy (as in Land Rover) aristocracy." James Bay Cree and other
working watermen along with a few canoeist-anglers who enjoyed living
dangerously wore waders.
Until recently, that was all there was. But times have changed. These days,
exploring the shoe section of a good outfitter's shop is an adventure in itself.
With so much on offer, though, how can you be sure you'll make the right choice?
It's easier that it seems. As always, it pays to start by narrowing the field. Your
footwear should match the kind of paddling you do. What works best for a gonzo
boater on a meltwater-swollen whitewater river won't necessarily suit the paddler
stalking wily brookies on spring-fed ponds, or warming herself in the tropical sun
aboard a sit-on-top, let alone
the expedition canoeist tracking a heavily
loaded freighter up a muscular Arctic river. Still, no matter where she's
headed, every paddler demands the same three things from her footwear: dependable
protection, adequate traction, and good fit. These don't need much explanation. All
of us have gone barefoot at some time in our lives, and most of us have the scars to
prove it. Many of us have had our footwear let us down unexpectedly, too. (Few
things are slipperier than an algae-slicked cobble, after all.) And while nearly
everyone's suffered from shoes that didn't fit, paddlers have an additional
dimension to consider. It's not enough for your shoes to fit your feet. They have to
fit your boat, as well. This isn't just a problem for creek boaters and the owners
of Greenland-style sea kayaks. Even canoeists need to make sure that their shoes
won't wedge tight under the seat when they kneel, no matter how much they twist and
turn.
Protection. Traction. Fit. With these watchwords in mind, it's time to check the
state of the mart. Let's start with
High-Tech Footwear
The engineers and chemists have been busy. Synthetic fleece,
neoprene, and similar materials have the remarkable ability to keep feet reasonably
warm without undue bulk, even when wet. Flipping through one outfitter's catalog, I
find no fewer than sixteen examples of high-tech footwear. Even the humble sock has
had a make-over. Fleece socks absorb only small amounts of water, stay warm when
wet, and can be paired with a favorite river shoe. And if that isn't enough, you can
step up to a sock made from neoprene or a composite fabric. You can go from thin to
thick, too, and some socks now come with zippers and drawcord closures.
Want to dispense with the shoe altogether? You can. Manufacturers have mated
engineered socks and sturdy outsoles to get a sort of Supersock hybrid. You'll have
a lot of choices. Soles vary from simple doubled fabric to rugged wraparound lugs
that wouldn't look out of place on a climbing boot. And as the boaters I saw at the
falls proved, many of these soles stick to just about anything. The uppers vary, as
well, from simple sock-like tubes to complex structures with buckle, lace, or
Velcro® closures. Low-cut pull-on hybrids might be all the shoe you need for
flatwater or sheltered bays. On the other end of the spectrum, expedition models
with reinforced heel counters, box toes, and deep lugs ought to take you almost
anywhere. In this category you'll also find the new-fashioned mukluk, a hybrid with
a lugged sole and knee-high neoprene upper. I suppose it's the twenty-first
century's answer to the wellie, and it's an attractive option. But it comes at a
price. You'd better be prepared to pay more than it costs to fill the tank of a big
SUV.
Or maybe you're one of those folks in whom hope repeatedly triumphs over
experience. Are you tempted to wear nothing at all on your feet? Well, best of luck
to you. Even if you never paddle in waters where coral or sharp stones lurk, you
probably can't escape the ubiquitous broken
beer bottle. But there's one way to come close to the pleasures of barefoot
boating while minimizing the dangers. Just get yourself some
Sandals
We've come a long way from bath thongs, baby. Armies have marched and fought on
sandals, after all. With contoured footbeds, strong lashing systems, and sticky
soles, sandals can be just the ticket for many kinds of paddling, particularly if
you pair them with neoprene or fleece socks for protection from cold and sun. You
can even find sandals with toe caps, further blurring the distinction between shoes
and sandals. But wherever you draw the line, there's no denying the utility of the
modern incarnation of this ancient footwear. If you can pay the price, that is. If
you're a pinch-penny, however, or an elective anachronist and most paddlers
are, at least some of the time you may want to consider
Traditional Footwear
Admittedly, "traditional" is a slippery word, but rubber boots have been showing
up at the water's edge since the middle of the nineteenth century. That's
traditional enough for me. And old-fashioned wellies remain my boot of choice when
messing about on beaver ponds,
poking along lake
shorelines, and paddling shallow streams.
They're also ideal in places where every mile of paddling is purchased with another
mile of portaging, and where portage trails not infrequently resemble sinuous bogs.
Sadly, though, and despite the fact that backcountry travelers often wear wellies or
pacs on moving water, these high boots are NOT good choices for whitewater
river trips. No, they won't "pull you down" if you dump. The water in a pair of
flooded wellies weighs no more than the surrounding water. But the added mass at the
ends of your legs nonetheless makes swimming mighty awkward. Moreover, the weight of water
in your boots will make itself felt anytime your feet aren't immersed. This
does nothing to help rescue and salvage operations. In short, if you need to be
light on your feet, both in and out of the water, wellies aren't for you.
Despite this, wellies still have a place in my closet. I like mine to have a snug
ankle, a high toe, and just enough room to accommodate thick socks and synthetic
insoles. There's just one problem. After a brief fling with the mass market, wellies
are returning to their upper-class origins. Most pairs now cost as much as a good
paddle. And what of L.L.Bean, long my supplier of choice? Last time I looked, the
only cheap wellie they sold was an abbreviated women's model. To my mind, the
availability of pastel colors can't compensate for the lost four inches at the top.
(You can still see the old green wellies used as props in the catalog photos,
though. I guess that's something.) Ah, well. Combing other outfitters's catalogs
will turn up the real thing now and then, and at a reasonable price, into the
bargain. Nor are wellies the only alternative. L.L.Bean's pacs aka "Maine
Hunting Shoes" can be found on many feet in lake country. Not on mine,
however. The seam joining the leather top to the rubber bottom chafes the hell out
of my bony ankles. Still, if the shoe fits you, I say wear it.
Or is a whitewater river your destination? Then don't rule out canvas high-top
sneakers. They're back in the stores, and they remain a good choice, especially when
worn over neoprene socks. (Be sure to check the fit with the socks you plan to
wear.) The flexible rubber soles are often quite sticky, too. Looks like the dynamic
duo hasn't lost all its magic, and it's still the economy king.
Whatever you wear on your feet, though, never lose sight of
The Bottom Line
Take care of your feet, and they'll take you wherever you want to go. Abuse them,
and they'll make your life a misery. No high-tech fabric can substitute for ordinary
TLC, and if you'll be spending day after day wading in and out of cold water, give
your feet a break. Dry off and change your socks whenever you can. Set up camp early,
too, while you still have plenty of time to dry your paddling footwear. Then towel
down and change into camp shoes. The penalty for neglecting these simple precautions
can be severe. "Trench foot" is a progressive, disabling cold injury that got its
modern name in the sodden hell that was the western front in World War I. Before
then, it dogged Napoleon's Grande Armée on the disastrous retreat from
Moscow, and it was still causing casualties during the 1982 Falklands War. Paddlers
are not immune. You don't need to venture out in subfreezing weather or spend weeks
in the trenches. Any prolonged exposure to cold and wet is enough. Luckily, as with the more
familiar hypothermia, prevention is easier than cure. It's also much less
painful.
Whatever and wherever you paddle, you always want to put your best foot forward.
Decide what shoes you need for the waters you frequent, take time to get a good fit,
and give your feet a little TLC every day you're under way. It's an easy
prescription to follow easier than it's ever been before. There's a quiet
revolution afoot. Now there's no reason for any paddler to be ill-shod. And that's
the bottom line.
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