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Five mornings later I was a bit bleary from the string of frantic 18-hour days it required me to answer yes, but I didn't care: I was driving north to La Verendrye Preserve in Quebec, where I was planning a two-week paddle around Reservoir Cabonga. I'd been eyeing the lake for a year on maps and knew that not only was it enormous, but almost completely pristine (just a dam, a small native reservation and two fishing lodges, plus a lot of primitive campsites scattered over 677 square km). And though the lake is in the middle of a protected area, it is only 10 km down a logging road from the tiny village of Le Domaine, which has a gas station, motel, greasy-spoon restaurant, camping/fishing store and fishermen's cabins, plus an outfitter called Canot-Camping La Verendrye (CCLV) that can shuttle a boat into the woods and back. An ideal setup.
I arrived around 10 PM and sprang for a room in the motel, which was $70 for Spartan but nice accommodations. After breakfast the next morning ($10 for bacon, eggs and toast) I headed over to the outfitter shop. It's a cozy building and everyone there speaks both English and French.
After finalizing my arrangements to be dropped off (and picked up) at the bridge at Passe Brady, off I went. I started paddling generally north with the intention of making the largest loop I could without leaving the map of Circuit 25, which covers most (but not quite all) of the reservoir, plus the connected Lac de l'Ecorce. I figured two weeks of 17 to 20 km paddles with a day or two of rest would be enough to finish it, which was about right.
The lake is quite peaceful when the fishermen are not humming by. (My guess is that at any given time of day there were about a dozen small fishing boats on the water. Most are from Rapid-Lake, and the others are from Bark Lake Lodge; some days I saw ten go past, other times I went two days without hearing a single one.) It's beautiful too: Mixed forest, mostly evergreen, reaches right down to the waterline, interrupted only by boulders, driftwood logs, and the occasional marshy area. Beaches are quite rare and very small -- any sandy stretch more than 10m long looked highly inviting to me after the first day.
The real variation lies in the sort of passages you can paddle through: wide open lake, island clusters, narrow chutes, twisting mazes, and a stinking fen here and there. Rocky islands are fairly common and offer good rest spots, though if there's any plant life you'll want to be careful on these obviously fragile ecosystems. Wildlife was fairly plentiful; beavers swam past on two occasions, and I also saw a bear. The bugs could be bad in camp, especially after the sun went down, which fortunately didn't happen til after 9:30.
My favorite spots were the cliffs along Chenal de Culbute and the main section of the lake in the general vicinity of the dam, but that's just because I like long vistas, rugged islands and dramatic elevation shifts. There's plenty of other kinds of beauty all around.
The campsites are primitive but well-maintained. Each has a nice flat area for one or more tents and a plastic barrel for a toilet. Most had a well-constructed fire ring, sometimes with a log bench, and a few even had small tables improvised out of flat rocks. Landing area quality ran the gamut from fine, gentle beaches with plenty of room for boats and wading to steep, eroded banks I barely trusted with my weight (mostly the former, thankfully). The lake water was cool and pleasant for swimming. I saw one daytripper canoeist the second day and except for him I may have been the only paddler on the lake.
Though I had a lot of sunshine, windy days were common, and big storms blew in a couple of times with little warning. When the wind picks up, waves appear instantly, and I saw whitecaps at least half a dozen times. A few days went from being pleasantly sunny and hot in the mornings to stormy in the afternoons. The last 48 hours it was quite blustery; 20 to 30 knot winds, 30 to 50 cm waves, and intermittent squalls. Capilene T-shirts and a Polypro top served me well for the trip, as did a good sun hat. Temperatures ranged from 30C on warmer days down to 8C at night.
The lake is about 3-4 hours northwest of Montreal and feels fairly distant from civilization. When my CCLV connection arrived to take me back to society, I found myself wishing they'd just brought me another bag of food. I easily could've stayed on the water another week or two.
For anyone planning a trip, here are a few miscellaneous thoughts:
Then contact CCLV by email. They are very helpful and friendly.
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