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Wilderness Tripping - BWCA & Beyond New Topic Printer Friendly Version

  repair kit for fibreglass canoe?
  Posted by: Dr1Gonzo on Jun-09-13 1:49 PM (EST)
 

-- Last Updated: Jun-09-13 1:50 PM EST --

Is it necessary to take a repair kit for fibreglass canoes on multi day trips? If there was any major damage from a rock in rapids, then I doubt a repair kit would do much.

On that note, I once saw Ray Mears make a kind of repair tar from trees to use but that was to repair a birch canoe.


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Messages in this Topic

 

  Take a roll of packing tape
  Posted by: jackl on Jun-09-13 3:06 PM (EST)
the type with the threads in it.
Duct tape will come off after several hours of being wet, but the packing tape makes a great temporary patch.
For what it is worth, there are several brands of epoxy that you can use under water, but there is a limit to the amount of stuff you want to bring

Jack L
 
 
  Somebody better put a post in reply...
  Posted by: jackl on Sep-15-13 5:56 AM (EST)
to the OP's post, because if I decide to be a meanie, I gang wipe the whole gang of you out with one mighty
"edit" !!!

Now start behaving nice to each other or else!

Jack L
 
 
  The answer is pretty obvious
  Posted by: kayamedic on Sep-15-13 9:19 AM (EST)
If you do multi day trips in wilderness you need to make some sort of repairs. I have taken duct tape back in the early 90's to temp fix glass.

Then I jettisoned the glass. I wrapped my Kev boat in Temagami where there is no road access for about a four day paddle. Duct tape to the rescue. I can vouch that it worked as the kevlar folded. Had it holed I had heavy duty plastic. No field tests on that one.

Now waiting for the next silly volley.

 
 
  You don't want to be running rapids in
  Posted by: ezwater on Jun-09-13 10:38 PM (EST)
the wilderness unless those rapids are *incredibly* easy in light of your proven ability.

West Epoxy markets a field repair kit. Others may also. Most repairs can be done with tape. Our first canoe camping trip was 12 nights in Quetico, and we never more than scraped our huge FG boat. If you do buy a field repair kit, read through the instructions before hand, and at least rehearse mentally how you would go about it.

But seriously, if you don't run a loaded canoe through class 2+/3 rapids, you probably won't have a serious FG repair.
 
 
  The handymans secret weapon
  Posted by: mgc on Jun-10-13 9:50 AM (EST)
is duct tape. Never dinged a glass canoe badly enough to need it though...or a canvas canoe. Unless you really cross one up in some rocks, you should have nothing to worry about.
 
 
  canoe repair
  Posted by: ppine on Jun-27-13 4:39 PM (EST)
-- Last Updated: Jul-05-13 3:35 PM EST --

Duct tape is the standard. I have repaired another person's fiberglass canoe that was badly damaged. We used rocks to pound out the dents and cracks and it worked. I punched two holes in a wooden drift boat on the Carson River and got home with duct tape.

Repairs are tough to make in the field with fiberglass and epoxy. You need grinders, scissors, cloth, mixing containers, etc. Better to repair at home. Maybe on a really long trip I would bring cloth and epoxy.

 
 
  epoxy putty
  Posted by: plaidpaddler on Jun-27-13 9:17 PM (EST)
I've taken along a tube of epoxy putty for years and have used it several times, sometimes for other camping gear and not the canoe. The old Spirit has several epoxy putty blobs on the keel line where the gelcoat and resin have been knocked off the Kevlar cloth crashing into rocks unseen by the bow paddler. Its a tube no larger than a toothpaste tube and you just break off what you need and knead it till the color is uniform thru the blob. It sticks very well and has fixed tool handles, filling in rodent bites.
We've patched holes in aluminum canoes with it and repaired wooden canoe paddles.
Bill
 
 
  yep, the epoxy putty stick
  Posted by: Mattt on Jun-28-13 8:37 AM (EST)
"I've taken along a tube of epoxy putty for years"

same here
bonds well to royalex as well if you buy the variety designed for plastic - supposedly works enven under water/wet though I'd dry the hull first. Never have had to use it for a repair, but I do carry it, along with duct tape and some wire etc.

duct tape, or any tape, will stick better if you dry the hull and clean with an alchohol wipe from your first aid kit.

I've just been going thru my repair kit I take on wilderness trips - going to add a couple small tubes of aquaseal (for repair to floatation bags), and redoing the thermarest repair kit to add some extra self-stick patches (had to repair two pads recently, though not from canoe trips). some people carry a few extra bolts for seat hangers, but I just normally check them before a trip and don't bother (partly what the wire is for)
 
 
  ppine, you did not repair anyone's
  Posted by: ezwater on Sep-08-13 11:58 PM (EST)
fiberglass canoe by pounding out the dents. Doing that would only split off the broken surfaces of the "dent". Fiberglass canoes do not "dent". They hole or they split.

I assume from your statement that you did not know what sort of canoe you were trying to repair. Royalex canoes may dent. Aluminum canoes dent. But fiberglass canoes hole or split.

I provide repair advice for "glass" boats, should you ever decide to get serious.
 
 
  Fiberglass Re[pair
  Posted by: ppine on Sep-09-13 3:51 PM (EST)
gd2,
Try to show some respect. Maybe you have never repaired a badly damaged fiberglass boat in the field. I used to build fiberglass sailboats for a living and I can assure you that after the glass breaks, the surface can be very rough requiring pounding with a rock. I am quite serious, especially when we are 50 miles from home with no roads around. We got home by pounding out the dents so the fiberglass surfaces were more or less close to the original lines of the canoe. Then came the duct tape.
 
 
  We talk canoes here, not sailboats.
  Posted by: ezwater on Sep-09-13 4:14 PM (EST)
Fiberglass canoes do not "dent" and pounding them with a rock has no utility whatsoever. If you do not want readers to think you have lost your mind, be specific about what sort of boat you were "fixing."
 
 
  fiberglass repair
  Posted by: ppine on Sep-11-13 11:29 AM (EST)
You may provide repair advice, but you present it in a way most people would not want to hear.
 
 
  fiberglass repair
  Posted by: ppine on Sep-11-13 11:36 AM (EST)
Since you weren't there, we can ignore your opinion.
 
 
  I know whose opinion I respect
  Posted by: kayamedic on Sep-11-13 12:15 PM (EST)
From my experience it can happen that fiberglass fibers break and if there are two breaks there can be a dent. Pounding with a rock is hilarious! That means you want to weaken the rest of the fibers that might be intact?

Its happened that I have folded a composite boat 70 miles from the end of the trip in NE Ontario. Duct Tape to the rescue. I am lucky there was no hole. Another time in Wabakimi a fast slam into a rock that cracked the foam core and bent the gunwales. Thankfully no hole.

In mild whitewater have put a crack in the glass and gel coat of one boat. No dent.

So who cares if its dent or crack? You are certainly angling for more extensive repairs if you use a rock to mash all the remaining fibers and resin. Better to duct tape and live with the misshape.
 
 
  If you want people to understand you,
  Posted by: ezwater on Sep-11-13 1:20 PM (EST)
-- Last Updated: Sep-11-13 1:30 PM EST --

you have to describe "you weren't there" in a way that accords with their past experience. None of us was there. Are any of our opinions to be ignored?

Based on your descriptions, I cannot imagine what sort of fiberglass damage confronted you. I've seen plenty of damaged FG, and I've fixed some of it, and it never looked like what you are describing. Not my heavy, thick FG boats, and not my very thin, flexible FG/Kevlar boats.

I've never seen a situation where pounding damaged fiberglass laminate with a rock would have been useful, or other-than-damaging. Kicking and stomping an aluminum canoe, certainly. Prying, kicking, and stomping a Royalex canoe, certainly. But not any of the wide range of canoe fiberglass I've dealt with.

 
 
  fiberglass repair
  Posted by: ppine on Sep-11-13 2:06 PM (EST)
We were trying to get home. The boat that was damaged was an old, not very good boat to begin with. The fiberglass was brittle. After the boat swamped in some big rapids it smacked some big rocks. The damage was extensive. The only way to get the contours of the boat lined up was to persuade them with a rock. Otherwise it would not have been impossible to use duct tape to fill an opening of around 8-10 inches.

My friend was surprised that we got the boat home at all. I am glad that you think it was so funny.
 
 
  repair
  Posted by: ppine on Sep-11-13 2:09 PM (EST)
You guys don't have as much experience as you think you do.
 
 
  repair
  Posted by: ppine on Sep-11-13 2:57 PM (EST)
The boat was a total loss. Damaging the fibers was not relevant. Just because you haven't seen it before is no reason to make fun of someone else's experience.

Most experienced canoeists that I have met would react much differently- as in. I have never heard of that one before. Tell us more.
 
 
  Well, now I sort of understand.
  Posted by: ezwater on Sep-11-13 5:17 PM (EST)
But do you see why your original account made no sense at all?

I guess you were slugging the boat to knock jagged, broken pieces back into position. Not a situation to be encountered very often.

As for repair expertise, mine is so orthodox that it is not likely to be totally wrong. The real issue in fixing composite boats is the ingenuity needed to succeed with a particular problem.
 
 
  repair
  Posted by: ppine on Sep-13-13 12:07 AM (EST)
Do you see that it makes no sense to accuse someone of being out of their mind and not knowing the difference between a fiberglass boat and some other kind of boat?
 
 
  take it to Band B
  Posted by: kayamedic on Sep-13-13 12:13 AM (EST)
g2d has probably more experience than the rest of us re repair of all sorts of boats.

Of course you have not read any of his blogs over on Song of the Paddle I suspect.
 
 
  repair
  Posted by: ppine on Sep-13-13 1:08 PM (EST)
No. I am not interested in reading anything he has written. He could be a great source of knowledge, but you would never know it by his posts here.
 
 
  Wait a while, and go back and read
  Posted by: ezwater on Sep-13-13 10:33 PM (EST)
your initial post. And we have had any number of people on pnet who don't know the difference between FG, AL, and Royalex.
 
 
  fiberglass
  Posted by: ppine on Sep-15-13 11:22 AM (EST)
Don't assume everyone that paddles is in that category.
 
 
  There will be less risk of that if they
  Posted by: ezwater on Sep-15-13 11:26 PM (EST)
don't talk like they belong in that class.

And note that no ww paddler of composite boats I have ever known would trust repair to someone who made composite sailboats. It's another world.

You are welcome to impress us with your relevant expertise on any occasion. Maybe you have it. But getting indignant isn't going to cut it.
 
 
  fiberglass
  Posted by: ppine on Sep-17-13 12:44 PM (EST)
I have repaired lots of fiberglass canoes. From wrapped boats, to delaminated boats, to simple holes punched in the side. Just because I built fiberglass sailboats for a living doesn't mean that I haven't spent a lot time working on fiberglass canoes and building wooden sea kayaks.

Stop insulting people and you will have a lot fewer problems in your life.
 
 
  Start setting forth your ideas clearly,
  Posted by: ezwater on Sep-19-13 10:49 PM (EST)
so that you are not subject to misunderstanding.

I still wouldn't let you touch one of my boats. Not if I was crippled and stranded.
 
 
  Duct Tape and epoxy putty
  Posted by: TommyC1 on Sep-22-13 1:10 PM (EST)
I carry good Duct Tape(3M 3939)and a tube of epoxy putty.
The duct tape won't stick to wet surfaces. But once the hull was dry I've made temporary repairs that lasted through several days of class III rock pounding (Dead River ME).
Never yet had to use the putty but it's small in my pack so I keep bringing it.

On our Allagash trip last week Wickerbut brought a GFlex repair kit. We had no need for the cloth but did use the epoxy to re-glue a kneepad that came loose.
 

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