Subaru Forester-Canoe Transport
Posted by: old_user on Mar-06-08 9:16 PM (EST) Category: Canoes
Has anybody on the forum used their factory Subaru rack to transport canoes? What would be the advantage (if any) of adding aftermarket crossbars??? Where do you usually attach the bow/stern lines??? Do you run the middle straps through the inside of the car or attach them to the rack side rails??? Thanks for the help! I may be picking up a new boat soon and this will be the first time with the Forester.
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The factory crossbars are not as strong|
Posted by: g2d on Mar-06-08 10:24 PM (EST)
as what you can get from Thule or Yakima. As for where to put the straps, you certainly won't have to run them through the car. They can be attached to the roof rails. The end lines should be connected to the four tow eyes under your car. You may find it worthwhile to include a snub line from the bow of the canoe back to the front end of one of the roof rails. This prevents the canoe from shifting forward, especially under hard braking.
I use Yakima on my Forester|
Posted by: canoeist11 on Mar-06-08 11:40 PM (EST)
You did not say if you are hauling a canoe or kayak. The Forester bars, however are stronger than most factory cross bars. If you intend on transpoting a canoe more than a couple times, invest in the Yakima load bar system with gunwale brackets. The system is much more secure and quicker to load and unload your boat.
Rear tow loop|
Posted by: old_user on Mar-07-08 3:20 AM (EST)
In the subject line I stated canoe transport.
Surprising that there's only one rear|
Posted by: g2d on Mar-07-08 10:57 AM (EST)
tow eye, and on the right side. Our Accord has just one rear loop, and it's centered.
Posted by: gnatcatcher on Mar-07-08 7:11 AM (EST)
Rifester - thanks for posting this. I have a Forester as well which I use to transport my kayaks and canoe. For the kayaks, we use Thule stackers mounted on the factory bars. The canoe is a Hemlock Nessmuk, only 16 pounds, so there is no weight issue. I also need to figure out a way to keep it from shifting from side to side on the rack, so any ideas are welcome. There has to be a better way than laying out all that money for over-priced Thule or Yakama stuff.
Subaru and those roof rack guys|
Posted by: CEWilson on Mar-07-08 7:35 AM (EST)
Double cut [Cross cut]foam blocks work pretty well on Subaru cross bars when only one hull is being toted.
Posted by: gnatcatcher on Mar-07-08 8:18 AM (EST)
Thanks, Charlie. I hadn't considered the front loops for such a small boat, but it sounds like a good idea.
Posted by: kayamedic on Mar-07-08 9:18 AM (EST)
works well enough..but in general factory racks are POS and can break at the worst times.
Posted by: gnatcatcher on Mar-07-08 12:18 PM (EST)
Posted by: old_user on Mar-07-08 11:41 AM (EST)
We've hauled our relatively heavy Adirondack on our 2005 Forester factory racks without incident. We use Yakima straps and strap the canoe to the bars. Initially, we put foam (pipe insulation) on the cross bars of the rack to protect the gunwales. After one season, we realized that it a a hell of a lot easier to put the foam on the gunwales.
Posted by: searunner on Mar-07-08 9:44 PM (EST)
For what it's worth when I got my 03 Forester the factory racks were rated for 150 lbs., the yakamas were rated for 160 lbs.
Posted by: rfree on Mar-08-08 12:00 PM (EST)
Well, I wouldn't have done that, but|
Posted by: g2d on Mar-08-08 12:42 PM (EST)
nothing succeeds like success. The factory crossbars on our '07 Outback seemed "doubtful" so I got Yakima right away. Another consideration for getting Yakima or Thule is they have carrying accessories that usually won't work on the factory crossbars.
Rear cargo tie downs|
Posted by: old_user on Mar-09-08 4:27 PM (EST)