How structural is the cockpit?
Posted by: Toller on May-10-14 3:06 PM (EST) Category: Kayaks
Last fall I bought a fiberglass CD Solstice SS. It is about the same as the Solstice GTS, only the hatches and hardware aren't as nice and the bow doesn't do as well in rough water.
I love paddling it, but the cockpit is too small. It was designed for someone a bit smaller (and more agile) than me, but I don't plan on putting any gear into it, so I figure the size is fine.
I have a little trouble getting into it, and a lot of trouble getting out of it.
I bought it pretty cheap ($850 IIRC) and I am thinking of cutting a new opening with a jigsaw, just outside the old cockpit opening; and gluing some plastic trim around it.
Obviously I will destroy the resale value and can never use a spray skirt with it; but I can accept the first and don't expect to use it in rough water. I am concerned that maybe I will ruin the structural integrity of it. Any ideas?
2-3 Canoe/Kayak Trailer
Bent Shaft Canoe Paddles
|Table of Contents|
|Messages in this Topic|
There would be a relatively small loss |
Posted by: ezwater on May-10-14 4:33 PM (EST)
of structural integrity, but can't you just sell it and choose another boat where the cockpit is right for you?
Posted by: Toller on May-10-14 7:18 PM (EST)
I've been looking diligently for a kayak for maybe the last 4 years. I have bought half a dozen and then sold them for about what I paid for them. This is by far my favorite to date. So I am not optimistic about something as good with a bigger cockpit coming up. If I have to "customize" it a bit...
Are the thigh hooks getting in the way?|
Posted by: g2d on May-10-14 8:49 PM (EST)
I have that problem on some kayaks, and have dealt with it to some degree by cutting back the thigh hooks. They can then be reinforced and padded if needed.
a wood rim glassed to the new opening|
Posted by: castoff on May-10-14 9:00 PM (EST)
Could work and look good. Check out how it is done for kayak kits. Pygmy and Chesapeak Light Craft make kits. It would allow the use of a skirt.
Could work, *if* the surface of his |
Posted by: g2d on May-10-14 11:42 PM (EST)
kayak presents a workable surface after he cuts out the old rim. This can present problems for the Tygon tube method also. On the boat I worked on, once the original small rim was cut off, I had a pretty smooth surface to work with.
what is the seat location?|
Posted by: trvlrerik on May-10-14 9:46 PM (EST)
I am not very limber with disproportionately long legs, making most kayak openings to small to easily fold up my legs and insert them while sitting in the seat.
Moving the seat|
Posted by: Toller on May-10-14 10:30 PM (EST)
I will look at that. Even an inch would be a huge help. I know there are a couple inches behind the seat, but I didn't note how the seat is secured.
Build a coaming...|
Posted by: grayhawk on May-11-14 1:20 AM (EST)
Posted by: carldelo on May-11-14 10:58 AM (EST)
Yostwerks has free plans for DIY SOF kayaks with multiple coaming styles that you could look at. The individual boat designs include offsets to draw up the coamings in detail. A coaming built up of thin plywood layers could be laid up in place on the boat after the existing coaming was removed.
Now that I look at it more carefully...|
Posted by: Toller on May-11-14 4:12 PM (EST)
The seat hangs from the rim, so if I cut the rim off, rehanging the seat would be a challenge. I only need more room in the from, but cutting off just the front off the rim would be too ugly even for me.
Posted by: carldelo on May-11-14 5:36 PM (EST)
Those are pop rivets. To remove, you have to gently drill them with a bit just slightly bigger than the hole - go easy. You can replace with pop rivets of the same size or stainless steel bolts sized to the holes in the fiberglass. A rivet gun + rivets is pretty inexpensive and not hard to use.
They are pop rivets|
Posted by: Toller on May-12-14 7:38 PM (EST)
and aluminum, so they should be pretty easy to drill out. I actually have a good quality pop rivet gun.
I would try moving the seat before|
Posted by: castoff on May-13-14 11:34 AM (EST)
I would do any modification to the combing other than reducing the size of the knee/thigh braces if they are restricting entry.
Why didn't you make a counter offer|
Posted by: yakfisher on May-13-14 1:10 PM (EST)
of $900? if you only paid $850 for it?
Enlarge the front only|
Posted by: JayBabina on May-13-14 7:12 AM (EST)
To avoid ll the hassle with the seat, why not cut the cockpit towards the front of the opening where it starts to taper and add on more cockpit rim. There's loads of information on making a cockpit rim and lip. Or find a wood boat hobby builder and have that person help you make one. You might be able to salvage the front section, move it forward, re epoxy in place and patch in the missing section.
Structure issue is present|
Posted by: mick_allen on May-12-14 5:54 PM (EST)
The cockpit coaming is extremely structural - the coaming, upstand and immediately adjacent deck act as a small structural “C” section ring beam surrounding the large discontinuity of the cockpit opening.
right. I was thinking|
Posted by: slushpaddler on May-13-14 8:21 AM (EST)
of how rec boats can collapse or fold on the paddler if caught in a strainer. Now imagine that boat without a coaming.
If you do decide to make a new coaming|
Posted by: rival51 on May-12-14 10:26 PM (EST)
You might look here:
Can't say enough about the quality of |
Posted by: ezwater on May-13-14 12:03 PM (EST)
information on that site.
Jay is on it ... |
Posted by: onnopaddle on May-14-14 4:25 PM (EST)
I have lengthened coamings on several boats including CD Extremes. ... A person skilled with fiberglass can do this with very little fuss or added weight.
Can this be done with thermoform?|
Posted by: Waterbird on May-14-14 11:41 PM (EST)
The manufacture tells me|
Posted by: Toller on May-16-14 11:42 PM (EST)
my plan to move the seat is sound, and he knows others have done the same. The hard part apparently is getting the seat unglued from the floor of the kayak; but if others have done it...
Still mess with the cockpit.|
Posted by: onnopaddle on May-17-14 1:14 AM (EST)
Sand a larger radius at the front/lower edge of the coaming. You will NOT be messing anything up structurally or lowering resale value. What you WILL be getting is seemingly an impossible amount of extra room for in - egress ease just by this small gain in height and softer edge ...
I am going to|
Posted by: Toller on May-18-14 6:19 PM (EST)
Paddle Brace Entry & Exit|
Posted by: trilliumlake on May-22-14 1:25 PM (EST)
Is your main problem is getting in & out? It would be a shame to put all that work into enlarging the cockpit (and to risk ruining a really nice kayak), if you could solve the problem by learning the proper paddle brace technique.