-- Last Updated: May-06-14 10:53 AM EST --
****Pics posted below***
I took my solo out for a paddle yesterday and when I got home, I noticed it was weeping a little water out of some cuts in the hull.
Its a 1988 Crozier J200 solo race boat. Its a Kevlar ultralight layup very similar looking to Wenonah's UL layup. It has the diamond core and ribs. Well, obviously water getting in the core is really bad. I got a quote to repair and refinish the hull and they wanted $250 to apply 3 coats of varnish and another $200 and possibly more to repair the 3 cuts weeping water. (No water gets to the inside of the boat).
Im no glass expert, but I also dont have $450+ to spend on a professional refinishing job. As much as it scares me, I think Im going to attempt to repair and refinish my baby.
There are 3 cuts weeping water. two of them are about 12" long, one is around 30" long. It appears the last owner ran over some very sharp rocks on a river in WI. The fibers are severed parallel to the boat, but there is very little actual damage. They're within 2' of the seat on either side, where you would expect to bottom out most severely. The cuts were so clean, I didnt even notice the 2 smaller ones until I saw them weeping water. The bigger one I noticed when I bought the boat last year, but never saw it weeping until yesterday.
The cuts dont require a cloth repair in terms of filling a divot or gap or anything, but I figure I'll probably need to put some cloth or cloth tape on it to repair the structural integrity. I mean, without a cloth repair, whats going to prevent the crack opening up again as soon as I run over a dead head or something? They really look like you just took a knife and cut the outer layer of kevlar. they're that clean.
I have several questions:
1. What are the advantages/disadvantages of using varnish vs something like West Systems 105 epoxy? After reading about MAS slow, it looks like a good choice.
2. Is there anything better than WS105? Im a glassing newbie, so ease of use and 'flow out' is valued more than low odor or anything else
3. What/How should I repair the cuts. I was thinking of glassing in 2" kevlar tape? is that enough overlap? would fiberglass be better?
4. Do I need to back fill the core underneath the cuts with something? the biggest cut is *slightly* soft, but not what I would call rotten.
4.1 If I should back fill the cure under the cut, how do I get goo/epoxy in there? There is no gap to fill, I would have to make a gap (ie: cut a V into the core, which I dont really want to do)
5. I searched on here and google, but didnt find a great tutorial for how to reglass a boat. If someone knows of a great tutorial, can you link it?
6. What is your favorite release film? I've never used it before, but I figure ill have to use some to get the cloth patches flush to the hull.
7. How worried should I be about core rot? **See below** The core is still stiff everywhere, but the repair guy I talked to said that old boats could have used Balsa wood or something else that is rot prone. I dont think mine is wood, but could it really be a treater/coated cardboard?
** Core Rot: I removed the seat column to lower it and I noticed that the 'core' of the kevlar seat mount was not foam, it looked like honeycomb cardboard almost. I couldnt tell if it was cardboard or not. If it was, it looked like it was coated with a resin or varnish of some type.
Sorry, that was long, but $450+ to fix it floored me. Considering I paid $800 for the boat, Im willing to gamble with my own attempt. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Also, if someone in the Minneapolis area wants to do this for me, Ill offer $200 + supplies, plus Ill deliver/pick up the boat within 3 hours of the metro area.
Touring Kayak Paddles
Recreational Kayak Paddle
|Table of Contents|
|Messages in this Topic|
Posted by: CEWilson on May-05-14 6:15 PM (EST)
You've a cardboard honeycomb core. You'll need to get all the water out, ir bake it, then fill the opened honeycombs with epoxy using an irrigation needle and syringe through the cuts. Then cover the slits with glass strips because it can be sanded smooth.
Posted by: mcimes on May-05-14 6:22 PM (EST)
I know the offer was a looooooooonnnnng shot. But you never receive if you never ask...
Do it your self and it will cost about|
Posted by: JackL on May-05-14 6:40 PM (EST)
a hundred dollars for materials.
use both epoxy and varnish|
Posted by: pblanc on May-05-14 7:35 PM (EST)
My experience with 105 and West |
Posted by: ezwater on May-05-14 11:38 PM (EST)
hardeners (205 and 206) is similar. Rolling on several coats, one after the other in close succession so rise of amine would not affect adhesion, I ended up with a somewhat orange peel surface. But after cleaning the surface, a random orbit sander leveled it out nicely.
Posted by: mcimes on May-06-14 10:32 AM (EST)
Here are the pics. It was hard to get anything to show up. It just looks like a small streak.
It isn't that hard|
Posted by: pblanc on May-07-14 7:49 AM (EST)
Looking at your pictures I would probably only try to inject epoxy into the core if areas of the hull bottom adjacent to the cuts felt spongy, and then only in those areas.
Posted by: mcimes on May-07-14 10:11 AM (EST)
Thanks, thats good to know. I was wondering what the rings/spots were from. Those are caused by moisture intrusion? They were on the boat when I bought it, so I didnt think much of it.
Do the other side immediately|
Posted by: pblanc on May-07-14 11:01 AM (EST)
It is just hard to maintain a wet edge when applying epoxy or varnish if one is trying to go back and forth working both sides of the hull at once.
Thanks for posting the pictures. |
Posted by: ezwater on May-07-14 11:15 AM (EST)
I always learn from such, even if I don't know what to do about the pictured issues.