Legs too long
Posted by: RubricOfRuin on Dec-09-13 7:18 AM (EST) Category: Kayaks
I usually paddle with foot pegs maxed out, that is in the furthest possible position, but now with the winter arriving and me switching to heavy boots I would be more comfortable with an extra notch...
Any ideas on how to make it happen without drilling extra holes in the hull and moving the rails? Foam block as a foot support/"fake bulkhead"? Or something esle?
Advice most welcome.
Gedi Convertible Helmet
Kayak & Canoe Outriggers
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Posted by: pblanc on Dec-09-13 8:10 AM (EST)
Not knowing what type of kayak you have makes it hard to comment.
er... my mistake|
Posted by: RubricOfRuin on Dec-09-13 8:31 AM (EST)
Right... I did not copy the bit about the boat! My bad.
Moving the rails|
Posted by: Jaybabina on Dec-09-13 8:30 AM (EST)
Almost all the foot pads now come with bolts and one time Yakamas had studs. I would remove the foot pads and either re-drill some new bolt holes in the rails so you can move it forward a bit.
Posted by: pblanc on Dec-09-13 10:24 AM (EST)
I have no idea what type of mounting system you have for your foot peg rails. Most all of the foot peg rails I have seen and used have holes drilled or tapped very close (within an inch) of the end of the rails, so drilling new holes to reposition them further forward without drilling at least one new hole in the hull would not be an option.
Switch to lighter boots|
Posted by: magooch on Dec-09-13 11:09 AM (EST)
Something like Chota brand mukluks can keep your feet warm if you use neoprene water booties inside and some thin socks inside the booties, and shouldn't take up any more room than your summer wear.
Posted by: Marshall on Dec-09-13 11:42 AM (EST)
Remove the rails so as to take off the foot peg. Reinstall the rails. Figure where your feet are going to rest and wrap a heavy copper wire around the outside of the hull to form it to the shape of the profile. Lay now formed wire pattern on minicell foam and trace to the inside of the wire with a sharpie marker. Trim the foam, cut out notches for the foot rails and stuff it place. Come warmer weather you can likely just leave it in place.
Posted by: LeeG on Dec-09-13 1:36 PM (EST)
Posted by: Peter-CA on Dec-09-13 11:39 AM (EST)
Can you skip the foot pegs and just brace off of the bulkhead? Maybe you can build up the bulkhead with foam for the right size for your winter boots, and use the foot pegs with your summer shoe ware?
I removed the foot pegs and made |
Posted by: string on Dec-09-13 1:29 PM (EST)
properly angled minicell braces that are glued on the bulkhead.
moving foot pegs|
Posted by: pbenter on Dec-09-13 1:36 PM (EST)
I bought a new WS plastic Tsunami at a steep discount with one of the foot pegs about 4" off from the other. There must of been a Friday factory party. It was a quick job to relocate the peg to match the other. I decided the best way to seal the two holes was to use the same technique WS uses. Basically a thru-bolt with a rubber washer.
Switching to "heavy boots"? Isn't that |
Posted by: g2d on Dec-09-13 6:22 PM (EST)
a safety issue, both in wet exiting and for swimming?
Boots vs boots|
Posted by: RubricOfRuin on Dec-10-13 5:03 AM (EST)
Posted by: Kocho on Dec-10-13 8:06 AM (EST)
Foam +ply maybe...|
Posted by: t.george on Dec-12-13 6:05 PM (EST)
I'd definitly go with foaming out the bulkhead, this has the added benifit of reducing volume for water in the cockpit. Once done, you may find the foam a bit spongy, if so you can lay a strip of thin ply over the front for your feet to rest against. If this works well for you, cut a really good one and seal it up with resin and a light layer of glass cloth. If you really like it and want some adjustability, cut shims out of your foam to be added or subtracted as fit dictates. I anchored a long velcro strap to my bulkhead and use it to pull all the pieces together and secure it to the bulkhead so it can't float out if I get ejected.