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  Help with weather cocking
  Posted by: riverdave on Nov-18-13 4:53 PM (EST)
   Category: Canoeing Technique 

I'm hoping someone out there can help me.
Paddling my 16 solo, when encountering 20 mph cross winds the tendency to weathercock towards the wind becomes a nearly insurmountable issue. I have 20 plus years experience with the single blade in solo boats, am fairly strong and have a reasonable level of competence. If I slow down substantially, the issue diminishes as expected. The sliding seat is positioned all the way back but even powerful sweep strokes don't do the job if reasonable speed is maintained.
I'm a sub 150 lb. lightweight and am wondering if I am simply too light for a 16ft. Solo in those type of wind conditions.
Any wisdom would be greatly appreciated.

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Messages in this Topic

 

  What boat?
  Posted by: pblanc on Nov-18-13 5:05 PM (EST)
You might be on the light side for a 16 foot solo which would give it a lot of windage and make it more susceptible to weather cocking or lee cocking.

I would first try trimming the boat a by putting one or two 1 gallon plastic milk jugs filled with river or lake water right up by the stern stem. You might then be able to move your sliding seat a bit forward so that you have some "reserve" capability to move it back when the boat wants to weathercock.

My experience has been that if you trim the stern down enough you can usually correct for the weather cocking. But some longer boats have a tendency to get sideways in wind and "lock in" so that it is difficult to point either the bow or the stern into the wind. I have had this experience with the Wenonah Voyager for example. That is a straight keeled 17 1/2' canoe.
 
 
  Maybe you do need a shorter boat
  Posted by: ezwater on Nov-18-13 5:42 PM (EST)
that also sits a bit deeper in the water. You may find that you can paddle it fast more effectively than you can your long boat.

I'm very tall and weigh about 214. I paddle kneeling on a pedestal. So I get more out of leaning back or forward than you do, and my sweep and draw strokes may be more effective.

My screwball opinion is that, if a paddler is going to paddle in a sitting position, then all we have learned about outfitting whitewater kayaks should be applied to padding sitting in a canoe. That is, assuming your butt is already firmly located in a bucket seat, there should be thigh support, and foot support. You should feel rather locked-in so that your sweeps, draws, etc., are more effective.
 
 
  You wonderful guys!
  Posted by: riverdave on Nov-18-13 7:11 PM (EST)
Your suggestions are truly appreciated and will be tried out tomorrow morn.
I paddle a Placid Shadow.
About a year ago I succumbed and installed a fastrack rudder system. It 100% eliminated the problem, but the purity solo canoe mindset was challenged and it was removed.
Eager to try the water bottles.
 
 
  All of the Placid Boats
  Posted by: riverdave on Nov-18-13 7:22 PM (EST)
Are well outfitted to achieve the "locked in" quality that you speak of.
I've got the high sliding seat and the body position is just perfect for a single blade.
 
 
  Sweeps Won't Do!
  Posted by: clydehedlund on Nov-18-13 7:51 PM (EST)
You'll have to paddle on the lee side only, using a pitched or C-Stroke (draw the bow towards the blade at the catch, then push the canoe straight ahead past the blade, and end the stroke by pushing the stern away from the blade. Move the sliding seat as far forward as possible. Moving it back will only work against you. 20 kt. wind is very doable, try paddling a rudderless 24 ft. solo outrigger in 30+ kt. wind, now that's hard work.
 
 
  lightening the stern
  Posted by: pblanc on Nov-18-13 8:23 PM (EST)
Making the stern light just makes the boat head up into the wind more. The light stern gets blown downwind like a weather vane.
 
 
  Stern heavy paddle on upwind side
  Posted by: kayamedic on Nov-18-13 8:47 PM (EST)
with sweep component on all forward strokes. The Shadow is extremely trim sensitive, more so than many other canoes.
 
 
  A sweep can be an inside-out "C"
  Posted by: Guideboatguy on Nov-18-13 9:13 PM (EST)
-- Last Updated: Nov-18-13 9:22 PM EST --

A sweep performed on the upwind side can be exaggerated so that the first part of the stroke pushes the bow downwind, the middle part of the stroke tends to "twist" the entire boat with the paddler being the pivot point, and the rear part of the stroke pulls the stern upwind. I really think that the effect of this big, semi-circular sweep stroke is stronger than that of a "C" done on the opposite side, but maybe that isn't the case for you. That said, I DO find that when going slowly I can spin the boat to pivot pretty strongly toward a direction that the wind is "discouraging" with a "C" stroke.

And Pblanc is right, that lightening the stern amplifies the problem. When traveling forward, water pressure against the stern is less than that against the bow, so the stern skids more easily causing the boat's aiming point to veer upwind, and this gets more pronounced the faster you go. You don't want to encourage that stern-skidding process to happen even easier than it already does.

 
 
  If it's trimmed properly, then all I can
  Posted by: ezwater on Nov-19-13 4:46 PM (EST)
add is to try to firm up your catch. Although I can c-stroke quite effectively, most of the time I just make sure my reach is well forward and my catch is firm. I can J-stroke too, but usually I don't. If you have a short, firm stroke, ending about when the blade passes your hip, the vector forces are going to make the boat go straight ahead.

Another thing that can help is, if a strong wind is coming from the side and disrupting progress, let the boat come around partway toward the wind and paddle along crabwise, ferrying across the push of the wind.

As to which side you should paddle, I often find that paddling on the windward side works as well as paddling on the lee side. I don't think there is a rule for this, you just have to find out what works.
 
 
  paddling side
  Posted by: pblanc on Nov-19-13 5:10 PM (EST)
In a boat that is wanting to point upwind I would generally first try paddling on the upwind side using strong forward strokes and see if the tendency of the forward stroke to turn the boat offside balanced out the tendency of the wind to turn it toward your onside. Sometimes you can find a happy place when you can use nothing but forward strokes applied with abandon and no correction at all.

If the wind is variable, the boat might try to turn upwind with each gust. If that happened I would add a stern draw at the end of the forward stroke. Doing nothing but full half sweeps might work but it gets kind of inefficient.

At that point if I was really having trouble I would switch to the leeward side and apply a strong stern pry at the end of my power strokes as needed. The stern pry is the most powerful correction stroke (apart from a reverse sweep which kills all forward momentum).
 
 
  Good point - I should clarify
  Posted by: Guideboatguy on Nov-19-13 5:54 PM (EST)
My comment about big sweeps was not to imply that it's a good method. It's great for serious, momentary correction when the wind really wants to have it's way, but not on average, and not for the long haul. I've found, as you say, that simply paddling on the upwind side usually does the trick if the boat reasonably well-trimmed for the situation, such that little or no correction is needed -- power strokes only.
 
 
  use a double blade paddle?
  Posted by: ret603 on Nov-19-13 8:26 PM (EST)
While I realize this is sacrilegious to those of you who worship at the "Church of the Single Blade", but may I respectfully suggest a double blade would have solved the problem. True devotees could use their single blade most of the time while having a two piece double blade hidden in the canoe for the times when needed (if there were no witnesses to this sacrilege).

When I test paddled a Shadow on a windy day (with an Aleutian paddle) I found it extremely responsive and somewhat loose handling. Easy to correct with the Aleutian paddle. Flashing back to the days when I could, and frequently did use a single blade, I think controlling the Shadow in wind would be considerably harder than with the double blade I now have to use (medical reason).

Dave
 
 
  Maybe, maybe not
  Posted by: Guideboatguy on Nov-20-13 12:12 AM (EST)
-- Last Updated: Nov-20-13 12:26 AM EST --

The OP said that "even powerful sweep strokes don't do the job if reasonable speed is maintained." It seems to me that if repeated sweeping on one side was inadequate for getting back on the proper heading, there'd be no advantage in having another blade ready to use on the other side, especially since double-bladed control typically involves adjusting how much power is used and on which side, thereby avoiding the use of corrective strokes. In this case, full power applied on just one side fell short of succeeding, so something else needed to be adjusted, OTHER than having the ability to apply power immediately to either side, and that's what the other posts have been about. To further drive this point home, imagine doing any of the corrective strokes described in this thread which are more effective than sweeps. You could do those with a double blade too (it'd be more difficult), and probably would need to, but then what would you do with your other blade besides leaving it up in the air to catch the wind? I understand that in a lot of situations, double-blade paddling is more effective in strong wind, and I expect that even for much of the time that the OP was on the water that day this probably would have been true, but probably not during the exact situation about which the question was asked.

 
 
  Maybe, maybe not
  Posted by: ret603 on Nov-20-13 12:15 PM (EST)
With a Greenland paddle, if more turning/corrective force is needed one grips the paddle at one end, adding a very long lever arm to the immersed blade. This magnifies the "corrective force" transmitted to the canoe/kayak. My 94" Aleutian paddle is approaching double the length of a single blade, so it can exert much more corrective force. Need someone with better math skills than me to put this down in numbers, I just know this is true by "seat of the pants" testing.

I use this same technique with my Aleutian paddles when it's called for. I vaguely remember doing so once or twice when test paddling the Shadow to see if it would work if needed in stronger winds-technique worked fine.

Once when test paddling a Current Designs kayak I went far downwind on a lake and then was almost unable to turn it across the strong wind to return upwind. Must have taken 10 sweep strokes combined with some bow draws and stern pry strokes. Crossed that kayak off my list.

Dave



 
 
  Makes sense
  Posted by: Guideboatguy on Nov-20-13 12:39 PM (EST)
-- Last Updated: Nov-20-13 12:47 PM EST --

The farther your blade reaches out from the boat during a sweep stroke, the more effective it will be at turning the boat. The downside of that is that your muscles have to work correspondingly harder. That's because the "mechanical advantage" is on the wrong end of the lever as far as your own force application goes (but on the proper side as far as effectively making the boat change heading). Still, my own experience and that of some other posters here is that other methods work better, and are more efficient for the long haul, than sweeps.

As far as not being able to turn back into the wind as you describe (very different from the situation in the original post) I've been in that situation of being pinned sideways in the wind with my guide-boat (in winds much too strong to even consider solo canoeing or the advantages of single-blade vs double-blade) where even with all that "effective sweeping action" of TWO long oars sweeping in opposite directions, I couldn't get the boat to turn. The solution was to build up some forward speed to loosen the stern so the stern could be made to skid, which then makes a turn toward the upwind direction a lot easier. In that case, once the turn is getting underway, I can usually spin the boat the rest of the way in an instant to get my proper heading, if done at just the right moment, when balanced on top of a passing wave.

 
 
  Trim, lee stern pry, heel
  Posted by: Glenn_MacGrady on Nov-20-13 12:05 AM (EST)
Best methodology is a rudder. End of story.

Otherwise for windcocking:

Trim heavier in the stern, as suggested.

Carry a long straight paddle when wind is expected. This gives much more leverage for sweep strokes than a puny bent shaft made for sitting on the floor of an undecked kayak.

Try paddling with C's on the lee side, also as suggested, being very heavy on a gunwale-assisted stern pry. Really lever the paddle sharply behind you off the gunwale.

Paddle the boat slightly heeled over. Try the heel to both sides. Sometimes the shape of the canoe plus the paddler and gear load will cause an asymmetrical "wind scoop" to help offset the windcock. Sometimes this works heeling into the wind, sometimes heeling away from the wind, sometimes not at all . . . and sometimes you see little fishies.

 
 
  Does anybody make a kit
  Posted by: holmes375 on Nov-20-13 3:20 AM (EST)
to add a good rudder to a composite canoe? I'd like to rudder one of my boats as it would make a sweet photography and fishing platform set up as such.

I saw Wenonah had a rudder option on their little Vision canoe that looked pretty nice.
 
 
  Ooops... Wenonah Fusion n/t
  Posted by: holmes375 on Nov-20-13 3:25 AM (EST)
 
 
  Call Wenonah
  Posted by: pblanc on Nov-20-13 7:05 AM (EST)
Wenonah offers a SmartTrak Rudder system as a $300 option on the Fusion so they have all the parts ready to go and I'm certain they would be happy to tell you how to install it.

The number is (507) 454-5430.
 
 
  My experience
  Posted by: rblturtle on Nov-20-13 8:03 AM (EST)
I bought a Hemlock Kestrel partially to combat this problem. It is much more wind resistant to my other solos. The worst was my Swift Osprey. The Kestrel's low freeboard,minimal rocker,and being on the smallside for me all work to help. For me,a single blade is better in crosswinds-I carry both. A longer single like an ottertail is better yet,but would be akward while sitting.
Turtle
 
 
  Wind free
  Posted by: yknpdlr on Nov-20-13 8:51 AM (EST)
I agree with Glenn... sometimes heeling over in one direction or the other works. You want to break the bow lock that keeps it fixed, while the stern gets blown downwind. Heelng may loosen the bow so it is not locked to the water. But in a big blow there are waves to contend with. Heeling over may not be the wisest move, especially if the waves are not consistently predictable in size.

During the 2012 Adirondack 90-miler, I was paddling tandem with my daughter in the bow. Long Lake on day-2 gave us a very strong wind out of the east. Tall trees on the shore offered some break, but not much. The long narrow lake heads north, but about a mile from the end there is a wide bay opening toward the east.

I was about a quarter mile behind a pack of several boats in a group that had started ahead of me. As they approached the open bay, all of a sudden, as if they were perfectly synchronized, they all pitched toward the right heading into the wind. How odd, why would they do that? In a second I realized what was happening... oh boy, here it comes, I thought. When we reached that same point suddenly the canoe lurched to the right in a heavy gust. I had all I could do with sweeps ending in draws to keep us to within at least 45 degrees of our intended course. My daughter alternated from wind side sweeps to lee side moving draws. Ruddering worked, but slowed us, so I kept up with sweeps and stern draws well behind me. I heard later that a voyageur and several other boats flipped in that same spot. Luckily there was a low rocky island just there that people could get to, and safety boats were in the area to assist.

In thinking about what causes such radical weathercocking, it seems there are a couple of different effects. The locking of the bow and wiggle of the stern is one that has been mentioned. But I think there is another as well. Consider that in forward motion the bow is cutting through the air, and even when there is wind from the side, the bow will still cut through and the air may well still be somewhat laminar on the lee side of the bow. But when it gets to behind midships, the inward curvature of the canoe causes a break from laminar air flow, and a low pressure area is created toward the lee stern. All the easier for the wind to blow the stern to a weathercock position. If that is the case, then heeling toward the lee side may reduce the area of low pressure.
 
 
  Sounds plausible
  Posted by: pblanc on Nov-20-13 9:10 AM (EST)
What you seem to be suggesting is something like the old frontal resistance/eddy resistance concept, only with the air (wind) as the medium rather than the water (current).
 
 
  A direct comparison
  Posted by: rblturtle on Nov-20-13 12:28 PM (EST)
Once my wife and i were paddling on Round lake in a fair wind. She was in my Kestral and I was in my Osprey. She wanted to cut diagonally across to our campsite instead of hugging the shore. About half was across while I was struggling to keep the Osprey straight,I looked back to check on her and she was practically lillydipping alone without a care in the world.I love both boats,but for those conditions the Kestrel shines.
Turtle
 
 
  use the blade as a rudder more at the
  Posted by: bigspencer on Nov-20-13 1:25 PM (EST)
-- Last Updated: Nov-22-13 2:49 PM EST --

end of stroke. Your weight is alright, it's just the distribution is off. If you can't paddle from a more aft position....continue to add weight in the stern until you get issue fixed. RiverDave, an added option would be to add weight everywhere on a windy day, in addition to weighting the stern, to attain more purchase down in the water of the entire hull. Somekind of cover over the stern or having the stuff you're filling the stern with reach up to the gunwales will help with the rearward cavity that catches wind as well.
edit: Agree Turtle....a shorter hull produces a smaller target for wind..
$.01
SteveD

 
 
  Thanks for the Wisdom
  Posted by: Riverdave on Nov-21-13 5:03 PM (EST)
All of your suggestions are appreciated.
The weight in the stern has definitely helped but truth be told, having to deal with added weights on my daily paddle is a pain. Last year I installed a fastrack rudder to address the problem and you are correct Glenn, it worked fantastically! The aesthetic violation of the rudder overwhelmed me last month and I removed the rudder and sought the advice of this community hoping for a miraculous resolution. Might just have to break down and reinstall the fastrack.
 
 
  remount the seat
  Posted by: pblanc on Nov-21-13 5:52 PM (EST)
If weighting the stern helped and you don't want to mess with weights, you could perhaps remount the sliding seat 6" or so further aft.
 
 
  Now there' sang idea
  Posted by: riverdave on Nov-21-13 6:23 PM (EST)
I hadn't thought about. Brilliant!
 
 
  ..Yeah'..(lol), like those canoes not
  Posted by: bigspencer on Nov-22-13 3:03 PM (EST)
so fancy & expensive are made with...the old wilderness touring rear seat.. What a stretch of imagination, usually frowned upon by the upper middleclass as the "less aesthetic than the Advanced, Expensive model canoe".....rotfl
 
 
  Some situations are no win(d)
  Posted by: mickjetblue on Nov-21-13 8:40 PM (EST)
Your craft is designed to handle much more weight than you have in it, and it is a fast paddling craft.

I went through something similar awhile back, and I added weight to the bow and stern by adding half a 50lb. bag of concrete into a poly tool bag, and letting the bags harden in the the bow and stern. The bags fit right into the furthest ends, and there they somehow work at their best. I can't fully explain it, but this puts the hull lower into the water, where some water surface must exist for the hull shape to be "effective", and I also think that the weight being in the end points makes a difference.

That's my 2 cents, and it amounts to 2 tool bags with concrete, and there is nothing pure about it, but it helps.

Good luck!
 
 
  Weight placement
  Posted by: Guideboatguy on Nov-21-13 11:00 PM (EST)
-- Last Updated: Nov-21-13 11:13 PM EST --

I'd have to question why putting weight in both extreme ends would put the hull any lower in the water than if both bags were closer to center, but still balanced the same. Actually, more than question it, I'll flat-out say it can't happen, unless the hull is extremely flexible and is "bending down" at each end as a result of the weight distribution. On the other hand, standard wisdom for providing the best ride over steep waves and the best ability to turn quickly is to keep most of the load as close to center as possible, because putting a substantial amount of the overall load out toward the ends makes the ends sluggish to initiate movement in all directions, and also less able to stop such movement, once started. Instead of floating easily over waves, they "stay put" due to all that extra inertia and cut deeply into them, if falling down one wave surface and encountering the face of the next wave, worse than not climbing, that heavily-loaded end will continue to plunge. And instead of swinging easily from side to side in response to turning strokes, again the ends will "stay put" and much greater effort on your part will be needed to initiate a turn. However, and I'm just speculating here, you MIGHT be experiencing a positive effect from putting so much weight in the ends of the boat, in that all that extra inertial resistance to side-to-side motion which is thereby created prevents momentary gusts from adjusting your heading as much. I'd guess that this is more likely to be true if it's mainly those brief, hard gusts that are causing your problems with maintaining a heading. This boils down to F=Ma, where given the same amount of force applied (by you, a wave, or the wind), acceleration (any change in speed and/or direction of movement) of the ends of the boat will be more sluggish when the mass at that location is increased.

Oh by the way, this is a different subject and you probably know this, but if you ever do swamp or tip when carrying that much cargo that's so much denser than water, your boat will probably sink (or maybe you are counteracting that risk with float bags?).

 
 
  weights
  Posted by: yknpdlr on Nov-22-13 8:50 AM (EST)
-- Last Updated: Nov-22-13 8:52 AM EST --

I'll strongly echo what Guideboatguy says, most certainly with the awful idea of putting concrete in a boat. There is a high probability that with a capsize, or even a heavy wave wash, those concrete shoes will take boat and all straight to the bottom. If you think you need weights, the best would be bags of water, which becomes "weightless" when submerged.

I also agree with weight placement. In windy conditions I keep all weight as centered as possible. I do this in a Rapidfire, and especially in a Hornbeck. I've been in some fairly rough water with big waves in my Hornbeck, and the effect is dramatic. In such conditions I keep the weight as centered as possible (dry bags under my knees, and any extra heavy stuff in separate bags up against the back rest, for example). That way the bow and stern "bob" up and over the waves like a see-saw, even though I have only a very few inches of freeboard. If the weight is pushed toward the bow or stern, then the boat tends to stay much more horizontal and waves will wash over.

 
 
  I will keep the echo going
  Posted by: kayamedic on Nov-22-13 9:45 AM (EST)
I paddle big water like the Gulf of Mexico and Lake Superior about thirty days total each year.

I have to carry a lot of weight ( about 100 lbs) of fresh water for the former. I always center the weight so that the ends ride over the waves and the ends don't get "pinned". Its true that mass on a long lever arm has more momentum or inertia than one on a short lever.

It really is quite noticeable that even a skinny fine ended boat rides over waves pretty well. Of course a skirt helps a bit.

I never would add things like concrete to my boat nor unnecessary weight. Its nice to be able to make changes in speed and direction as efficient as possible. F=ma after all.
 
 
  Mostly agree with Kim-one thought
  Posted by: ret603 on Nov-22-13 10:58 AM (EST)
I have a superbly crafted lapstrake wooden canoe that occasionally weathercocks severely. It's a canoe based on a 150 year old design, and it has a fixed seat (on bottom) and fixed backrest just behind the center of hull, and yes, it is a canoe. I use a double blade paddle (not a kayak paddle) to propel it.

At times on the CT River I have been in spots where wind, current and tide conspire to produce very strong weather cocking. Paddling through those portions of the river, I have to hold the paddle off center to extend more paddle to the needed side. At times I've even held one paddle end and extended the paddle fully to use the long lever arm for powerful corrective sweep strokes. This is not as stressful to the shoulders as might be thought because I use a narrower Aleutian paddle.

Many Mariner kayaks have a sliding seat and a skeg-like aspect to the stern. One engages or disengages this skeg-like aspect by changing where your weight is in the kayak by utilizing the sliding seat. I own a Mariner Express and yes, it does work. I'm thinking of how I could apply this concept to my canoe with its fixed seat and backrest without major alterations to this beautiful wooden canoe.

My brainstorm (or brain fart) is to attach a pulley to the rear deck and the rear of the seat support. In this imagined "fix" I would run a cord loop through the pulleys and attach a gallon jug of water to the cord. The scenario is that I could move the jug of water (weight) to the stern when needed and retract it to just behind the seat for the rest of the paddle.

If I do try this "solution" next Spring, I'll post the results.

Dave
 
 
  using a partial Canadien-style can
  Posted by: bigspencer on Nov-22-13 3:33 PM (EST)
-- Last Updated: Nov-22-13 3:42 PM EST --

often help in the wind...and using whatever your canoe has for an edge..can help do the trick RiverDave, although with wind, waves, and gnarly surroundings...can often raise the hair on the back of our necks. Don't forget to use the "other" edge, as a flat-bottomed, edgy, OC-1 would...when needed. Sometimes, if the waves won't swamp you...rolling the hull onto its "other side" edge can give you some stability with the wind. That's where it helps to get a little purchase from the bow or stern. It's not your optimum position for safety but leaning over the gunwale, upwind, for boat stability helps.
$.01

 
 
  Adding ballast weight: how, where?
  Posted by: Glenn_MacGrady on Nov-22-13 1:56 PM (EST)
The benefits of adding weight near the middle of the canoe rather than the ends have been discussed, and I agree with those rationales. Mostly. However, if you are solely concerned with stopping severe windcocking, and not with end buouyancy, wave lift or swing weight, then putting the ballast at the very end of the hull may be the most effective place.

Rocks have historically been used as ballast both in canoes and ancient sailing ships. You just want to make sure the rock is so-shaped and so-placed that it will fall out of the canoe in a capsize. You obviously don't want the ballast to sink the boat (though that used to happen to the Phoenicians).

A safer alternative is to fill up large, roll-top, waterproof dry bags with water, and stick those in the end(s) of your canoe. The big bags will be quite heavy when filled with water, and the grab straps make them more carry-able than the usual volcanic boulder. The water-filled bags also have neutral buoyancy in water, so they won't have any sinking effect on the canoe if it flips over. Finally, you can easily empty water bags before your portage from Lake Superior and refill them again when you arrive in the far superior waters of Lake Huron.
 
 
  Dry Bags
  Posted by: riverdave on Nov-22-13 10:19 PM (EST)
I've been wondering what to do with that collection of dry bags up in the attic. Such an elegant solution, thank you!
 
 
  Try it before you applaud
  Posted by: kayamedic on Nov-26-13 11:09 AM (EST)
You may find yourself with a pond in the boat. Dry bags do not prevent leakage long term.. Water will seep out eventually..sometimes all at once as the middle gives way and the ends don't.

We use a roll top dry bag for a water filter.. Its called an MSR gravitiy filter. Loaded you have to be sure to keep the rolled side up.. flat it will dribble.
 
 
  We Use Honey Buckets From the Outhouse
  Posted by: clydehedlund on Nov-25-13 1:25 PM (EST)
Placed in the middle of the double Old Towne canoe traveling downwind to the convenience center. Trust me, the upwind trip back is faster and the canoe handles better with empty buckets. Having an extra paddler helps, but adding additional weight is no substitute for improving technique.
 
 
  vary your weight distribution with your
  Posted by: bigspencer on Nov-26-13 10:37 AM (EST)
-- Last Updated: Nov-26-13 11:50 AM EST --

boat's design...there is a point where a forward stroke will be efficient, often further towards stern, regardless of the amount of weight, although as cold as g2d can be;-)..in the wind the right length makes for an easier day...however how true..that you may have to paddle a little more vigorously...that's what paddling in the wind is about anyways...y/n?;-)
Personally, the shallower ponds are infinitely more fun to practice in...can be a lot of fun in the hot afternoons of summer to practice pushing your boat's limits. Finding a line from a lean to a boat's edge, paddling windward side towards stern(per kayamed's), will most always help find the efficient zone and the leeward edge can be a fast edge as long as one keeps the wind from overdoing lift to the hull and keeping upperbody separation in line. Canadien stroke can help keep constant control going.
Rambling off...
$.01

 

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