-- Last Updated: Oct-23-13 2:35 PM EST --
You'll find differences of opinion about which tie-downs are needed and which are not, or which ones are good insurance and which are overkill. One particular pair of tie-downs you mentioned is a pair that I use, but which I've never seen anyone else use, and that's the pair that run from each outside rear corner of the car, going FORWARD to a thwart on the canoe. Discounting the integrity of the rack itself, those are the only connections that can function efficiently to keep the boat from sliding forward. To counteract those lines, it's also best if the bow tie-downs attach very far forward, at the bumper rather than alongside the hood (though I think that method is reasonably good, especially in the absence of sloping lines at the back), so the boat is "stretched" between those two pairs of lines and can't move forward or back. The typical pair of lines running from the rear bumper to the tip of the stern accomplishes nothing in the way of forward/rearward sliding that isn't already accomplished by the front pair (this type of rear tie-down does the same thing as the front pair: it keeps the boat from sliding rearward), which is why I never run lines to the tip of the stern at all (but if the front tie-downs are nearly vertical, anything extra at the stern will be useful).
First Need Purifier
1 Canoe/Kayak Trailer
2-3 Canoe/Kayak Trailer
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