After years of waiting for a kevlar boat that I could afford, I now am the proud owner of a 18.5 foot Sawyer canoe. It's old (probably 1975 if the last two digits of the serial no. stamped on the boat means anything). I can't tell what model it is but it's 34" wide at the middle (not tumblehome) and depths from bow to stern are: 16",11.5", and 13.5". I'm curious as to what model it is, but my main question is how to deal with abrasion in the lower bow area. Seems most the solutions involve a grunch pad which I don't want to consider given the nice look of the boat. And I'm pretty careful with my boats, so I won't be running it up onto the beach. Is it possible to repair it by resin only or do I have to use cloth too. It doesn't leak but it is frayed and worn to the cloth for about a 3" run. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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If it was me, I would use...|
Posted by: JackL on Sep-19-13 6:00 AM (EST)
West Systems epoxy.
Posted by: mornstein on Sep-19-13 6:40 AM (EST)
Posted by: CEWilson on Sep-19-13 6:50 AM (EST)
Sawyer made USCA Cruisers and Pro boats at 18.5. An image of the boat and/or a sketch/ description of the cross sectional shape will help identify. AT that width, if it has a flared center section, it's probably a Super, an early Pro Boa and one of my all time favs.
I don't doubt it was a racer|
Posted by: Clive on Sep-19-13 10:32 PM (EST)
Fiberglassed into the inward bow is a note stating: 'This is a special lightweight competition canoe and is not covered by the traditional Sawyer warranty.' It also had the number 8 in red taped to both sides of the bow hull. Apparently someone raced it. The guy I bought it from said he got it from someone in the San Francisco Bay area who had a whole canoe trailer of similar boats. It also came with spray skirts which the guy I bought it from never used.
I guess we all do things different .....|
Posted by: pilotwingz on Sep-19-13 10:21 PM (EST)
If the damage is really only 3", perhaps|
Posted by: g2d on Sep-19-13 10:32 PM (EST)
you can fix it with resin only. But try to count the number of layers that have been worn through.
I have Kevlar and Fiberglass cloth|
Posted by: Clive on Sep-19-13 10:44 PM (EST)
already. If I understand you, the fiberglass would be preferred because of it's sanding properties. What about the color. According to the above post, I'll have to paint or cover-up the repair. Are their no solutions where I can keep the original color showing through. I thought just filling it in with a clear fiberglass resin would do the trick. If I have to cover it up I'm sure I can come up with something creative. Thank you all for the advice so far.
I'd probably use cloth too|
Posted by: pblanc on Sep-20-13 8:10 AM (EST)
You said that the area of damage was "frayed" which suggests that at least one layer of cloth was broached. It it was only a single layer over a 3 inch length, the loss of strength at the stem might not be that consequential.
Posted by: Clive on Sep-20-13 11:09 AM (EST)
I was referring to pilotwingz's comment about the West System product drying to a light blue color which would need to be covered up. The boat itself is the golden color from the underlying kevlar. Thank you for detailing the "cloth" process. It will be helpful if I choose to go that route. I'm still hoping to get by with applying some sort of clear product without cloth.
I'd definitely use fiberglass, then|
Posted by: pblanc on Sep-20-13 12:44 PM (EST)
I'll bet their hulls were all Kevlar. |
Posted by: g2d on Sep-20-13 1:50 PM (EST)
Back then, builders didn't know about the limited compression strength of Kevlar, and hadn't had enough experience with the fuzzing problem.
sorry Clive, didn't proof the link ...|
Posted by: pilotwingz on Sep-25-13 9:51 AM (EST)
Posted by: CEWilson on Sep-26-13 8:56 AM (EST)
Sawyer didn't use epoxy in production boats.