I favor small gas outboards over electric for all those same reasons. A related item to consider is that by law, your battery must be enclosed within a case and firmly attached to the boat. To do that in the average canoe would take some clever modification. Then again, I haven't been inspected by the sheriff or game warden while on the water since 1978, so breaking the rules may be pretty "safe", and a lot of people do exactly that. Just know that if your battery isn't properly secured, you COULD get a ticket and be ordered to stay off the water until you get it corrected.
That "maximizer" control, as I understand it, works by having some sophisticated electronics chop the battery's full power on and off at a very rapid rate. Increasing the ratio of "off" time to "on" time in the chopping cycle results in less power being delivered to the motor, and it's much more efficient to do it that way than to waste battery power heating up a resistor (the old-fashioned way to make an electric motor go slower). I think every major maker of trolling motors offers that feature, but of course not every model has it because the builder always wants to offer cheapest-possible alternatives alongside their best-possible ones.
First Need Purifier
Bent Shaft Canoe Paddles
Cartop Kayak Carriers
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