Vinyl patches bonded to composite boats or Royalex boats may come off in time. In my experience, it takes years for this to happen and it usually occurs on a warm day. They can easily be bonded back in place with vinyl adhesive a second time.
The way I use vinyl adhesive is to mark the position of the patch on the hull with pencil, lightly sand the hull surface using 100-150 grit paper, clean the hull and patch with acetone, and allow both to dry. Vinyl adhesive must be applied to both surfaces and allowed to degas some before the patch is approximated to the hull. On a warm day, that happens in 10-15 minutes. On a cooler day the process can be sped up by using a heat gun or hair drier on patch and hull. Be careful not to overheat a Royalex hull.
Even if the vinyl adhesive appears to be degassed, I will often waft a heat gun over the patch and hull surface just before approximating. It is a good idea to use indexing marks on the patch and hull to assure the correct placement and orientation before the two are approximated because the patch can't usually be realigned once the two come together. It is a good idea to go over the patch with a plastic roller (sometimes called a tile roller) which can be purchased at your local hardware store.
The thing I like about vinyl adhesive is that patches can be removed without damaging the hull and often without damaging the patch. You might need to reposition a patch or replace one if a D ring rusts or if you reoutfit the boat. To do this, warm the patch with a heat gun, peel an edge up with a paint scraper, grab the edge with a pliers or similar instrument, and slowly peel it off as you gently warm it. Patches glued in with 3M Scotch Weld structural adhesive, epoxy, and many other agents can not be easily removed without hull damage.
2-3 Canoe/Kayak Trailer
Cartop Kayak Carriers
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