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Advice, Suggestions and General Help New Topic Printer Friendly Version

  2 part expanding foam experience ?
  Posted by: Cliffjrs on Jun-15-13 8:17 PM (EST)
   Category: unassigned 

I need to replace the floorboarsd in an aluminum boat. I will be using two part liquid expanding urethane foam under them. Has anyone used this product ?

I have a couple of questions:
How can I fill the voids up to the floor boards ? If I put the plywood in place the foam will stick to it. If I use plastic, will the foam stick to the plastic ?

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Messages in this Topic

 

  Beware
  Posted by: willi_h2o on Jun-15-13 9:20 PM (EST)
-- Last Updated: Jun-15-13 9:24 PM EST --

You might want to practice with it,
understand volumes of expansions, the extreme forces,
and it sticks like hell to almost everything.

Read completely - top to bottom -
http://www.shopmaninc.com/faq_foam.html

http://www.shopmaninc.com/foam.html

 
 
  ok , good start , but ....
  Posted by: pilotwingz on Jun-16-13 3:18 AM (EST)
-- Last Updated: Jun-18-13 11:58 PM EST --

....... you missed a step in the rebuild .

You want to re-foam the under hull to max as I understand your question .

The step you should have done before fitting the new ply deck is install the bridging . This can be made of 3/4" runners (1x4 pressure treated is fine) .

The bridging simply does what it sounds like , it bridges across the beams . It should fit from side to side and spaced aprox. every 16" on center .

After the bridging is fastened to the beams , then you fill the hull with the 2 part expanding polyurethane closed cell foam . Just pour it in between the bridging and allow it to expand . Add a little more here and there as needed untill the intire hull bottom is filled and the foam expands through the bridging gaps .

Yep , it's now all bubbled up above the bridging 1x4's .

Next step ... simply take any hand saw and cut the foam flat off with the top off the bridging . Let your saw lay flat across the 1x4's as you cut off the over fill foam . Scrap off and/or sand off any foam that has stuck to the 1x4 tops as you feel needed to allow the new ply to lay down flat to the bridging .

See what I meant about missing a step . The ply you cut fits nicely to the side right now , but there will be a small gap when you raise it 3/4" .

So just for neat , clean and trim looking finish job ... choose some material to fit the inside corner between the ply and the hull sides . My 1st thoughts for a suggestion is some old garden hose , but other materials can accomplish that minor detail well also , so use your imagination on that one . Whatever material just be certain it's marine enviroment durable .

I've assumed you will be re-carpeting the deck , and it will finish out ok also if you just allow the carpet to fit snugly to the sides . There will be a dip at that gap the thickness of you ply . Don't concern that the ply won't have any support at the sides if it's not touching the hull sides , it shouldn't be touching in the 1st place but a small gap should be allowed . The foam between the bridges will support the ply . Also when you fit the bridges , allow a 1/8" gap at sides , don't fit them tight to hull sides ... same principle as the ply , close but not tight , not touching .

Do you understand what I have said Ok enough to go back and add the bridging now .

One other thing . The 2 part foam comes in differnt densities . 2 lb. foam is good for floatation but not any serious structural work . 4, 6, and 8 lb. foam are used for more structural work . The higher the number , the denser (harder) and heavier the foam . 2 lb. foam supplys 50-60 lbs. of bouyancy per cubic foot ... and so on .

I don't know what type ply you used . You should be using a "marine grade" ply . Fir marine grade is the least expensive , and it works and holds up just as well as the expensive stuff like Okume or Mahongany , etc. . If you used regular exterior Yellow Pine sheathing grade , it will self destruct in a couple years . If it's an interior grade ply , it will rot and delaminate over night .

Decent little fishing rig you got there , does the job fine doesn't it ... worth fixing up for sure .

Oh , almost forgot ... allow the foam to not only puff up and feel dry to your touch , but allow a couple more days before cutting ... it needs to finish expanding and fully cure (takes a few days) .

 
 
  Thanks for your input.
  Posted by: Cliffjrs on Jun-17-13 4:24 PM (EST)
 

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