-- Last Updated: Jun-14-13 9:46 PM EST --
Edit: Im wondering how to cut kevlar that is already glassed/hardened.
************Here are pictures http://s258.photobucket.com/user/mcimes/library/Crozier?sort=3&page=1 ****************
I am going to lower the seat on my J200 as it just feels too high compared to my other solos. Its a 80's Crozier and he used a unique seat mount. It is a box made of kevlar with open ends. Its about 6" high, 8" wide and 18" long. It looks to be only a couple layers thick with no reinforcements (meaning ribs or foam core) The sliding seat rails are mounted on top of the 'box' with nylon spacers, washers, and bolts.
So I need to cut it out. I was thinking of using a dremel and a abrasive cutoff wheel and doing a rough cut about a half inch from the floor. Once the box is removed I would go back and very carefully try to cut the remaining half inch tab off of the floor and sand it a little to get it flush.
Next, I was thinking I would set up some sort of fence system to keep the cut straight and attach it to the kevlar box. I was thinking of using some wood or aluminum rod and use a ratchet grip to clamp it to the box. Then I could create a reasonably straight cut to lower the seat 1.5" total.
I work at a machine shop so I also have access to a bandsaw, vertical mill, welder...almost any cutting equipment you can think of, so Im just looking for thoughts or other ideas about my process. My goal is to create a straight cut and not have the kevlar structure delaminate or fray. Also, repeatability from side to side is important so my seat isnt tilted. Ideally I think a 10" abrasive wheel on a table saw would be ideal which is only $9 at nothern tool.
Has anyone cut kevlar with a blade like this? Did it work well or is this a horrible idea?
I will re attach the box with 2" kevlar tape (1" on the box, 1" on the floor) and G flex epoxy. Advice on using G Flex to wet out kevlar would also be helpful.
Thanks for any help
The Kayak Wing
Gedi Convertible Helmet
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|Messages in this Topic|
I use scissors|
Posted by: pblanc on Jun-14-13 2:05 PM (EST)
Despite repeatedly seeing people advise that Kevlar can't be cut with a scissors, I have cut 5 oz/yd aramid cloth this way many times. I mark the cut with the cloth on a flat surface then slowly cut along the mark with sharp scissors.
Posted by: mr_canoehead on Jun-14-13 2:32 PM (EST)
I'm thinking the OP means kevlar that is already in a laminate. Scissors would be very tough going. Maybe something like a tin-snip would work, though I would prefer to use a grinder. As for sanding off the last little bit - that might make it messier. Maybe just put something over it so you don't cut yourself?
Posted by: pblanc on Jun-14-13 3:06 PM (EST)
For aramid in a laminate I would probably try an oscillating saw, something with a replaceable blade so you wouldn't feel bad about dulling it.
Posted by: mcimes on Jun-14-13 4:01 PM (EST)
I was thinking about that, but I could only use that once the seat box is removed. I dont think there is enough room between the seat box and the side of the canoe to use a reciprocating saw to cut it off the canoe.
Oscilating, not reciprocating|
Posted by: Bnystrom on Jun-15-13 8:37 AM (EST)
I think what he was referring to is an oscillating multi-tool like the Fein Multimaster and all of the clones that have appeared recently. They're ideal for cutting in tight spaces and do a good job on composites. I've used mine for cutting out seats and bulkheads, among other things.
Posted by: mcimes on Jun-14-13 3:03 PM (EST)
other thoughts ...|
Posted by: onnopaddle on Jun-14-13 4:07 PM (EST)
Posted by: mcimes on Jun-14-13 4:22 PM (EST)
don't bolt anything back together ....|
Posted by: pilotwingz on Jun-15-13 11:04 AM (EST)
.... re-install same as originally installed ... taped in .
Question on the 2" kevlar tape"|
Posted by: jackl on Jun-14-13 4:42 PM (EST)
Where do you get it?
Ms Google here for ya Jack|
Posted by: kayamedic on Jun-14-13 5:02 PM (EST)
Posted by: mcimes on Jun-14-13 5:16 PM (EST)
I didnt need much, so I just ordered 1 yard from ebay. It was $7 shipped and they gave me an extra yard for free.
Awesome ! Thank you guys|
Posted by: jackl on Jun-14-13 6:38 PM (EST)
I didn't mean to steal the Op, but got excited when I read that what I need does exist
You Got a Crozier?|
Posted by: clydehedlund on Jun-14-13 5:06 PM (EST)
Please reconsider and leave it stock, for unless it needs repairs, anything you do to it will devalue it.
Posted by: mcimes on Jun-14-13 5:29 PM (EST)
I agree with you 100 percent|
Posted by: jackl on Jun-14-13 6:36 PM (EST)
Make the boat yours !
mcimes .... please send me|
Posted by: onnopaddle on Jun-14-13 7:48 PM (EST)
some pics if you want ...
Pictures of everything|
Posted by: MCImes on Jun-14-13 9:36 PM (EST)
I Don't Blame You|
Posted by: clydehedlund on Jun-14-13 11:04 PM (EST)
An excellent hull. However, I'd remove the seat and tube rails and replace with modern all foam custom shape yourself seat, like solo outrigger paddlers have. Using a small cable guide down the middle to set and hold adjustable sliding foam seat or fasten with velcro. Might reduce height by an inch this way?
the fastner may be a sex bolt ...|
Posted by: pilotwingz on Jun-15-13 11:15 AM (EST)
I thought about it last night and ...|
Posted by: pilotwingz on Jun-15-13 10:52 AM (EST)
That is a really well layed up part !|
Posted by: onnopaddle on Jun-15-13 6:26 PM (EST)
If he did this the way I think he did its pretty cool and took way more time than one might realize in comparison with the hull layup.
Posted by: mcimes on Jun-15-13 8:24 PM (EST)
I am open to other options. How do I make a sliding seat with very little height? I need to but a new seat as the current one is cracked, so it could possibly have custom mounting/rails on it. Pat, you might be able to make something up? Otherwise Ive talked to Bob zaveral about this and he said he could glass in nearly any mount i wanted.
Pog, What's That Dense Gray|
Posted by: clydehedlund on Jun-15-13 8:45 PM (EST)
Posted by: clydehedlund on Jun-15-13 8:33 PM (EST)
Remove all the clutter on the box and leave box as is to serve as pedestal with 1/4 to 1/2 inch thick foam piece (cut to size) glued down on top of box with Barge All Purpose Cement or Weldwood Contact Cement. With pedestal, you can now go both ways: kneel and sitdown. So get knee pads and wear leather moccasins that cover the tops of your toes.
I tried a savage river DIIIx last night|
Posted by: mcimes on Jun-21-13 2:32 PM (EST)
I did it|
Posted by: MCImes on Jul-16-13 11:48 PM (EST)
well , show us a photo ....|
Posted by: pilotwingz on Jul-17-13 12:07 PM (EST)
..... how did you cut it , what'd you cut it with ??
Ah, I forgot|
Posted by: mcimes on Jul-17-13 12:33 PM (EST)
Ill take some pics tonight so you can see how it looks.
yeah , friction and plastics ....|
Posted by: pilotwingz on Jul-17-13 11:38 PM (EST)
...... if you ever get the chance again , try those thin little Dremel cut off wheels , you'd be amazed at what they can do , slow compared to the heavier 4" x 1/8" you used , but much less friction and smooth sailing .
Posted by: MCImes on Jul-20-13 3:14 PM (EST)
Posted by: stevet on Jul-21-13 6:57 AM (EST)
Man that photo site is too full of ads to even be usable!
looks pretty good ....|
Posted by: pilotwingz on Jul-21-13 8:21 PM (EST)
...... any pointy fuzzies , rough edges sticking up that could be sanded off ?? They hurt when you poke or scrap on one .