OT Canadienne Gunwale replacement
Posted by: natekimh on Jun-11-13 6:53 PM (EST) Category: Canoes
Acquired a 1983 Old Town Canadienne with completely rotted gunwales and deck plates. I was wondering what kind of wood I should use and if I used a more flexible type,could I get away with not having to steam the gunwales before installation.... This is my first major project I've done with a canoe so I am excited but a little intimidated.. I would really appreciate any ideas..
I will be posting photos of the project as I go...
Hardshell Kayak Sail Rigs
Reflective Hull Decals
Pull-Up Strap Handle Kit
|Table of Contents|
|Messages in this Topic|
A few years ago a canoe builder |
Posted by: kayamedic on Jun-11-13 7:44 PM (EST)
friend of ours gave us cherry cut to gunwale dimensions. We came home with 4 20 foot sections and no idea what to do, no steamer box.
Posted by: WHendrix on Jun-11-13 7:54 PM (EST)
I put gunwales (and everything else) on a Canadieene back in 1983. I used Ash and did not have to steam them. As Kayamedic reported, I just started in the midle and worked both ways. It does take some pretty strong force as you get close to the ends. Ash too is pretty heavy but durable. Although I've sold the Canadieene (to a neighbor)the gunwales are still in good shape.
Having worked with both cherry and ash|
Posted by: g2d on Jun-11-13 11:07 PM (EST)
for other purposes, I think that the best ash is tougher than the best cherry, and not necessarily any heavier. A cherry I cut down in my yard and had milled is incredibly heavy, very hard, and would never bend well enough to make gunwales. The cherry I've received in furniture and keyboard instrument kits would be OK for gunwales, if one could get it in the necessary lengths.
Posted by: natekimh on Jun-12-13 9:58 AM (EST)
Sounds like ash is the way to go. I appreciate all the advice... Im looking forward to getting started soon.
I will have to ask where my|
Posted by: kayamedic on Jun-12-13 10:05 AM (EST)
cherry came from , I believe it was from a mill in rural Maine and it was a 20 foot length.. hard to find. Then canoe builder friend planed it to thickness. It is not at all heavy. What I like best is that it is easy to maintain and does not get black spots.
Another issue is the contour of the |
Posted by: g2d on Jun-12-13 2:49 PM (EST)
gunwales, and the willingness of the chosen wood to follow those contours without steam bending. The boat I want to re-gunwale is our old Moore, which in addition to the usual easy curve as seen from above, has a steep rise at each end. More challenging than a MN II or similar. The boat originally had Moore's peculiar split aluminum tube driven over pegs system. One of the tubes is a bit crimped, and as I understand it, Moore used a team of three experienced factory experts to hammer the tubes on from the end.
Posted by: pgeorg on Jun-13-13 9:07 PM (EST)
With FG hull and ash gunwales, |
Posted by: g2d on Jun-13-13 9:50 PM (EST)
I don't think there would be a problem with differential ezpansion-contraction. Wood does that across it width, not along the length of the grain.
Posted by: pgeorg on Jun-14-13 6:55 AM (EST)
My post was not clear in that respect. The strips were 1/4" thick.
It's hard to beat|
Posted by: mgc on Jun-13-13 9:30 PM (EST)
a good piece of ash but cherry and spruce are all perfectly fine for outside rails. The cherry is pretty, spruce is easy to work with and lighter and ash is the toughest but the rails will black spot if you don't keep them varnished. Use spar, not poly and at least three or four coats.