Locks for sit in kayaks
Posted by: Bootyjuice on Jun-11-13 4:14 PM (EST) Category: unassigned
I just got a new sit in kayak, but I have no idea how to secure it outdoors besides drilling some holes in it and chaining it up on a fence, which I rather not do. Anyone have good suggestions on how to keep my kayak secure from theft outdoors. I tried searching the internet but everything was for sit out kayaks... thanks in advance.
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- Locks for sit in kayaks - Bootyjuice - Jun-11-13 4:14 PM
Steering Wheel Lock and chain?|
Posted by: kayak_bob on Jun-11-13 4:23 PM (EST)
I was thinking about this when I started leaving my kayaks on the roof overnight - luckily nothing bad has happened yet...
I was thinking the easiest way would be to use a steering wheel lock (ie "The Club") and locking that across the cockpit or if too wide, maybe one of the hatches instead, then loop a cable lock and secure it to something unmovable.
Not too sure how durable the lock is on steering wheel locks, may be easily drilled, etc. Also may need to oil it often since they weren't meant for the outdoors?
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Posted by: willowleaf on Jun-11-13 5:26 PM (EST)
I wish more manufacturers would think about that and do what Venture does on the Easky models we have: they mold a stainless steel bar into a recessed spot on the deck that you can run a chain or cable lock through. It's such a simple thing that makes it fast and easy to secure the kayak to the roof rack or to a sizable tree or railing.
On some boats you can thread a locking cable or chain around foot pedal structures or the seat support -- that will thwart a nuisance thief but probably not a determined pro.
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Posted by: RavenWing on Jun-11-13 5:35 PM (EST)
P&H offers it on their whitewater (Pyranha) and touring boats. Venture is a partner/subsidiary of P&H so they offer it too.
The problem is that the width of cable that can be slid through their bars (all of them) is not very wide, more like a very ordinary bike lock. Better than nothing though.
Prijon also installs a similar bar inside the cockpit behind the backband.
Better still: running a heavier cable through the seat pillars (between the pillar and the side of the boat).
Determined thieves plan ahead and use bolt cutters. Cable locks just buy time.
Taking a hatch cover can make for an interesting deterrent.
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Perception used to install stainless, |
Posted by: ezwater on Jun-11-13 5:34 PM (EST)
vinyl loops on the front and rear decks of ww kayaks, which served both for rescue and for locking boats at the river access points.
But those loops were not hard to cut with a bolt cutter or the right small saw.
Even heavier locking cables are vulnerable to cutting, and they're really too heavy to carry in the boat.
A light cable and lock are sufficient to stop a drive-by, impulsive thief. If you're facing a semi-pro thief, the only additional thing you can do is to put ID all over the inside and outside of your boat, so that it has much less market value.
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Posted by: Peter-CA on Jun-11-13 5:53 PM (EST)
lasso cables are made for this, but more expecting you to be on a roof rack or similar.
Some boats have lock points, often just behind the seat. With these, you can just use a standard lock and cable.
Thieves are looking for easy prey. Seems that if you make it harder/more expensive for them to resell, that would also slow them down. So lock through the deck lines/bungees would require that they untie them or cut them, either way increasing the work they have to do to sell. If you have a rudder, locking around the control cables would have a similar affect.
Taking off removable parts, like hatch covers, and storing separate from the boat also would decrease the value to the thief (but increase the chance of some critter turning hatches into homes).
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The way I secure mine to the roof rack|
Posted by: jackl on Jun-11-13 6:15 PM (EST)
when I am at a motel over night would work for you.
Go to Wally world and pick up a dog cable run, (they come in several lengths). It is a cable with a plastic coating. One end has a connector which if you cut off will leave you with a round metal ring, and the other end has a secure loop.
Also pick up a pad lock.
Depending on what you have on your kayak. If you have a rudder feed it through one of the fittings. If you have carry handles or grab handles that are secured to the boat with a metal loop, feed it through one of them.
As a last resort, feed it around the seat, and then loop it around a tree or other immovable object and secure the two ends with the pad lock.
It will keep the everyday crook from taking it, but I am sure a pro could cut it in a heart beat.
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Same problem as protecting a bicycle|
Posted by: Waterbird on Jun-11-13 7:42 PM (EST)
It's probably easy to cut through some cables, but at least they deter an opportunistic thief. I use a lassoo cable on my roof rack but I'm sure someone could cut through it if they wanted to. Or they could remove the whole roof rack with the kayak attached.
I feel comfortable leaving a kayak cabled to the car roof in a parking lot during the day but I wouldn't rely on a cable to protect an expensive kayak cabled to a tree outdoors. Depends on the value of the kayak. I think you could install two steel security loops on the deck for a cable.
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CUSTOM LASSO CABLES|
Posted by: scupperfrank on Jun-12-13 12:19 AM (EST)
We had a chained (3/8" steel links) and locked SOT stolen even when attached to our fence about 15 years ago, but we strongly suspect it was our neighbors who moved out immediately after the theft. I also strongly suspect that bolt cutters were used to cut thru the chain, which was looped around the fencepost at the bottom of the chain-link fence. I think it was retaliation for complaining to them about a late-night (2-3AM) mid-work week loud party... twice... and suggesting a bored cop might want to relieve the boredom...
Whatever, it goes to support jack's contention that a motivated thief will probably not be deterred by much any of us here might want to use to secure our boats.
That said, we use 3/8" steel cables for our lassos, which I made myself, and loop over each end of the boat, one end looped thru itself, the other end's loop locked to the cable coming from the first end. These cables are, in turn, locked to another cable which attaches to our rack and a steel b post in the chain link fence behind the palms.
You can use the same setup to lock your boats directly or indirectly, with a second, locking loop, to a "fixed" point -a roof rack crossbar on your car, or a rafter inside your garage, or a fence post (over which it should n ot be able to be raised, of course).
We've had our system for years, it's still rust-free (use the more expensive SS cabling for durability, and aluminum for the crimps -and double, or triple -them for added security, and perhaps use the plastic-coated cabling to better protect your boats), and our boats are still secure.
Now of course it's not going to stop a pro, but it sure beats the alternative of no security to secure your boats in possibly insecure times and place. And it SURE as hell beats not having a boat, because it's been stolen, to
-Frank in Miami
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Posted by: BNystrom on Jun-13-13 7:15 AM (EST)
Run a heavy chain or cable behind one of the cheek plates and around a solid object.
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Posted by: jsmarch on Jun-13-13 10:13 PM (EST)
not much will deter an experienced, capable thief, but you can easily discourage the casual thief with one or another of the available cable systems. we use a cable with loops on each end and a hard plastic ball. cable goes behind the seat post, which is lassoed and the ball on the other end goes through a window where the ball means it can't be yanked out. Only way to get to the kayak is to cut the cable or jimmy the door. easy and effective.
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