The plane doesn't cut it on this part of the paddle. What's your technique for this spot where your hand ends up spending most of the time while using the paddle?
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Consider a Stanley Surform tool|
Posted by: bartc on Apr-14-13 9:56 PM (EST)
They come with flat and curved blades, and microplane makes an even better flat blade (but not a curved one for some reason.)
A rasp or microplane works well|
Posted by: BNystrom on Apr-15-13 7:13 AM (EST)
I typically do the initial shaping with a 4-way rasp that you can find just about anywhere that sells tools. Coarse sandpaper wrapped around a dowel or stick or works too.
carving GP shoulders|
Posted by: ret603 on Apr-15-13 9:04 AM (EST)
Posted by: acadia on Apr-15-13 9:33 AM (EST)
I did this yesterday on my latest GP. I used a sharp knife (nothing expensive -- a Frosts Mora 860) and then a spokeshave.
Low-angle spoke shave|
Posted by: mintjulep on Apr-15-13 9:45 AM (EST)
chisel and curved sole plane.
spokeshave - round face ........|
Posted by: pilotwingz on Apr-15-13 10:01 PM (EST)
I use a file|
Posted by: dong on Apr-15-13 10:21 PM (EST)
This is probably the most important part of the paddle to me. Like you said, your hands spend a lot of time in this area. A file lets me finely tune this area until it feels good.
I use hand planes to carve my GPs...|
Posted by: hodtay on Apr-15-13 11:17 PM (EST)
I band saw the shoulders as in the Holtz paddle carving instructions so there isn't much more I need to do on the shoulders other than what I do with my block plane and then 120 grit and 220 grit paper in a random orbital sander. The shoulder length on my paddles are typically 2" or less.
Rotary rasp on a router table with no|
Posted by: longshadow on Apr-16-13 9:52 AM (EST)
guides/fences, or a drill press in a pinch (watch the sideways torque) followed by a mini sanding drum like a dremel kit. The last GP I did, I didn't have access to either a drill press or a router table, so I just spent extra time with a "pocket" plane and a razor blade.
Posted by: slushpaddler on Apr-16-13 10:47 AM (EST)
(maybe tools made of stone or bone? That's all I can think of)
Posted by: booztalkin on Apr-16-13 11:32 AM (EST)
Seems there's as many different ways to carve as their are varieties of GPs and GP-paddlers.
Gone through that twice myself.|
Posted by: longshadow on Apr-16-13 12:02 PM (EST)
Both times the knot ended up in one of the shoulders. I took some advice from here and continued to rough them out. Then I took hold of the knot-end blade and gave it a whip though the air multiple times...basically puting more stress on the paddle than I ever would in real life, even in doing a chest skull & forward recovery. One survived and I finished it for my daughter. The other snapped and I got a norsaq out of it.
I'm going with epoxy|
Posted by: rival51 on Apr-17-13 10:41 PM (EST)
Some epoxy & wood flour on the one in process. I glued up some left over pieces that had some crap edges that I was hoping would be carved away but no luck. Also two small tight knots out near the tips. I'm not too concerned about those.
choose better wood |
Posted by: ret603 on Apr-18-13 9:26 AM (EST)
Considering how much time we put into making a fine paddle it seems to me that choosing the best wood before starting is prudent. How much is your time worth?
Something from nothing is gratifying too|
Posted by: longshadow on Apr-18-13 3:09 PM (EST)
Greenlanders had to use driftwood. My daughter's GP was gleaned from 50yo barn ruins. Recycle, eh?
Posted by: mrmannerz on Apr-20-13 5:40 PM (EST)
but the greenlanders and aleuts were splitting their paddle blanks out of drift logs, so they knew they had good straight grain before they ever started carving.
Posted by: booztalkin on Apr-21-13 12:05 AM (EST)
I've found you can get away having a few knots in the boards, especially if you are laminating so no single knot weakens the piece throughout. I just screwed up when I was laying out the piece, the result being a knot at exactly the wrong place.
My understanding is...|
Posted by: Bnystrom on Apr-21-13 11:25 AM (EST)
...that they're pretty much the same weight, but northern white cedar tends to have a lot of knots. Western red cedar varies considerably in weight and I've found a few pieces that were very light. It also varies a lot in moisture content, so I try to let my wood dry for a few weeks before carving it.