Greenland paddle finish advice
Posted by: old_user on Mar-04-13 7:47 AM (EST) Category: Paddles
-- Last Updated: Mar-04-13 7:48 AM EST --
I'm thinking about buying the second paddle (love it) from this page:
But, I'm not sure about what finish is good.
I've heard the pros and cons of epoxy and varnish, tung oil, and etc...
Looking for some experienced advice.
Kayak Motor Kit
Classic Freestanding Rack
Recreational Kayak Paddle
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Depends on what you like|
Posted by: Wayne_Smith on Mar-04-13 8:11 AM (EST)
The only real difference is what YOU like. I've built both, and use both, and the only real difference for me is that a properly done epoxy finish is a little tougher than an oil finish, which is good for rock garden paddling.
Posted by: VK1NF on Mar-04-13 8:22 AM (EST)
My GPs have epoxy on the blades, bare wood elsewhere. The epoxy seals and toughens the blades, and I love the feel of wood on the shaft...
Posted by: underhills on Mar-04-13 8:46 AM (EST)
I've had both epoxy/Spar varnish combo (you need the Spar varnish, epoxy breaks down with UV light), and Danish Oil. The oil paddle feels some much better in your hand. An epoxy paddle can be thinner since you are gaining strength through the epoxy but in the end it just doesn't feel as good.
Posted by: Canuka on Mar-04-13 9:20 AM (EST)
I recently bought my first Greenland paddle, a Tuktu, and I had it finished in tung oil. I love it. It feels silky smooth and is very durable compared to other "oils". Tung oil takes some time to dry (my paddle was still sticky when I opened the box) but again, it is super durable and I doubt very much that it will need retouching as often as Watco does.
Posted by: old_user on Mar-04-13 9:27 AM (EST)
Those tips are cool. thanks
Posted by: magooch on Mar-04-13 9:55 AM (EST)
You might want to consider water-based polyurethane. My favorite is outdoor Varathane Spar urethane. It is extremely easy to use and the finish is absolutely clear and non-ambering. I've used this finish on all of my wood paddles. It takes six to ten coats and light sanding between coats--particularly the first couple. Repairs are effortless--just a quick sanding and apply another coat. It is very fast drying, so it is not necessary to have a perfect environment to work in
Varathane water-based poly|
Posted by: Canuka on Mar-04-13 11:24 AM (EST)
I had a very bad experience with the Varathane water-based stuff. And the guy who recommended it to me had an even worse time with it!
Posted by: mrmannerz on Mar-04-13 10:28 AM (EST)
I prefer straight linseed oil on the paddles that I carve, but my paddles aren't laminated....so-
I use polyester resin coated with |
Posted by: string on Mar-04-13 11:12 AM (EST)
Spar varnish. I use the polyester because I have a friend in the boat repair bidness and get it for free.I also think the resin penetrates the wood and makes it tougher.
Posted by: willowleaf on Mar-04-13 11:34 AM (EST)
My first GP was a laminated Friday Harbor with a combination tung oil and varnish finish. The feel was wonderful, like a baby's bottom with really good grip. But a season of use wore the finish through quickly especially at the tips, so I reluctantly sanded them down and refinished both ends past the loom with straight marine varnish. The combo finish makes the grip really nice on the loom so I left it that way.
GP finish choices|
Posted by: ret603 on Mar-04-13 12:31 PM (EST)
I have tried all of the finish options noted above and they all work in the short run. In the longer run there are trade-offs with each.
protecting paddle tips|
Posted by: ret603 on Mar-04-13 3:29 PM (EST)
As with paddle coatings, there are a number of choices.
Posted by: old_user on Mar-04-13 6:53 PM (EST)
That was one of my concerns with the laminations, expansion/contracting issues. On the same page
An oil & varnish blend...|
Posted by: BNystrom on Mar-05-13 7:25 AM (EST)
...will give you the look, feel and ease of application of an oil finish with substantially improved durability. My personal favorite is a 50:50 blend of pure tung oil and spar varnish, but you can use boiled linseed oil and any type of varnish (other than water-borne products). I've tried a few combinations and they all seem to perform similarly.
mine are now bare wood|
Posted by: harlingford on Mar-05-13 7:00 PM (EST)
I have two paddles made by Don Beale, solid WRC. One is about 8 years old and still in great shape. It was originally coated with tung oil but it's been bare wood for at least the last 6 yrs. I take it on every paddling trip but mostly as a spare because I usually use a carbon fiber version that I slightly prefer for the extra buoyancy. The wood paddle is faded from the sun and sea, but the bare wood seems perfectly fine and handles as comfortably as it ever did. I like the feel.
Bare wood |
Posted by: gingernc on Mar-06-13 8:49 AM (EST)
Mine are bare wood too -- the ones I made from western red cedar. The ones I bought or won were oil-finished once (a Beale and a Lumpy). But I don't see that the finish really adds anything beyond beauty. My well-used paddles are silvery now.
Posted by: dajarr on Mar-07-13 3:48 PM (EST)
Another vote for tung oil. Nice feel, durable, easy to apply. As has been mentioned, make sure that it's 100% real.
get what you can replace. |
Posted by: andy on Mar-11-13 1:53 PM (EST)
All the mentioned finishes work well. I like oil because it requires no mixing, has reasonable time to work it into wood, looks nice, feels right to me and is easy to touch-up.
Posted by: old_user on Mar-22-13 9:23 AM (EST)
A friend of mine got one of these. It was nice. I'm still looking.
Posted by: rblturtle on Mar-25-13 11:18 AM (EST)
on my canoe paddles i tried oil all over and it didn't provide enough waterproofing fot the blade. i like oil on the grip,so i spar varnish the blades and ligtly oil the grip.
Posted by: mrmannerz on Mar-25-13 1:23 PM (EST)
If you've done this, just ignore me.
Did you get one?|
Posted by: greencrafted on Jan-31-14 8:45 AM (EST)
Did you get one?
Just to be tiresome, moisture content |
Posted by: ezwater on Mar-25-13 12:34 PM (EST)
of wood significantly affects its strength. The usual GP designs have enough "meat" that the higher moisture content associated with an oil finish will not put the paddle at risk.