Adding Perimeter lines to a Wilderness Tchaika. Have the materials ready, but have some questions on how best to proceed...
For the rigging the deck lines to the furthest end of the bow or stern which would be the better option?
Option 1 - drill a hole (but not expanding) next to the bow/stern toggle lines?
(top view of this area)
Option 2 - mount a pad eye behind the area in option 1:
All the factory installed pad eyes are parallel to the hull:
Assuming I install my pad eyes in the same manner - what would be the best way to run the perimeter lines through them?
Would probably need to make a knot to keep the loop from slipping through the pad eye? - would make a good mounting point for accessories & bungees?
I also have four point mounts, but they seem kinda 'ugly', especially since the other mounts are standard pad eyes - however would these be a better solution?
I can't seem to figure out what the purpose of these cleats are for.
Reading up on some of the archives - it looks like the Mariner kayaks had something like this but they were recessed and it seems like their purpose was to hold a paddle across the deck (with some bungees/rigging?) - however on this kayak they seem to be more of an annoyance at best and a hazard in bad conditions....
If I were to remove them, what could I replace them with/fill in the holes with?
Thanks in advance!,
Touring Kayak Paddles
Canoe / Kayak Anchors
Heel and Pegpads™
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On number three:|
Posted by: jackl on Feb-17-13 5:41 AM (EST)
If it was my boat, I would remove them, and just use smaller stainless bolts and captive(with the plastic insert)nuts with washers to fill the holes.
Posted by: edzep on Feb-17-13 6:04 AM (EST)
The nice thing about the "4-pointers" is that you can used them to make criss-cross bungie lines, AND use them to run static perimeter lines. I'm not sure I'd want to replace the pad eyes with them, though, for the hole differences. And, the 4-pointers need to be on a fairly flat surface.
Posted by: wetzool on Feb-17-13 10:14 AM (EST)
Kajaksport makes a number of deck fittings:
Click photo to enlarge or click here to change viewing preference.
Different approach to consider|
Posted by: carldelo on Feb-17-13 12:16 PM (EST)
The cleats definitely look like a copy of Mariner-style rigging. In your situation, I would skip all the extra hardware, and run a painter from one cleat up through the toggle loop and back to the other cleat. I did something similar on the front deck of a skin boat a while back.
a different approach|
Posted by: gnarlydog on Feb-19-13 5:50 PM (EST)
I am not a fan of pad eyes or other hardware sticking out from the deck and I prefer a surface that has little or no hardware where I can catch my clothing/body on when/if in a rescue.
Posted by: LeeG on Feb-19-13 9:54 PM (EST)
I would much rather put one 10-24 ss machine screw through the deck with finish washer on top and small fender washer underneath holding a loop of folded 1" webbing than a plastic eyelet held with two screws. It won't stick up as much and you can configure one or two loops to hold any number of lines or bungies.
Thank you everyone!|
Posted by: kayak_bob on Feb-20-13 12:25 AM (EST)
Thank you everyone for your input!
spacing of anchor holes|
Posted by: gnarlydog on Feb-20-13 12:38 AM (EST)
Bob, I found that the spacing of the holes for my recess anchors was dictated by the material I used to thread through the deck and then epoxy in. If I used stiffer tubing (poly) it would not create a short radius and the spacing was around 1.5”.