I carve Greenland paddles as a hobby that has evolved to carving paddles for others. I've responded a couple times to Greenland paddle posts on this site.
I began by using the Holst paddle carving plans, band sawing out blanks and then using a block plane to carve the facets and taper the blades. The block plane is a one-handed tool that is pretty tough on my hand for as much time as it takes to carve a paddle. I reconditioned an old Stanley-Bailey No.3 plane which is the smallest two-handed plane that fits my hands. I prefer the No.3 over a spoke shave or a draw knife. I use the plane at a severe angle with the iron proud of the sole hog off material in a controlled manner The method I use allows me to deal with wood grain issues and carve accurately to construction lines.
Soon I need to replace my No.3 plane and I'm looking for some input on what others are using. Maybe I can improve my technique or the tool I'm using.
Kayak Motor Kit
Touring Kayak Paddles
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|Messages in this Topic|
For The Rough Stuff...|
Posted by: VK1NF on Dec-25-12 8:58 PM (EST)
...nothing beats a 4" electric planer - keep it set shallow, and it spares a lot of time and tissue damage. Once that's chewed off the bulky stuff, a spokeshave and a small hand plane finish things up nicely - and of course, sandpaper, sandpaper, sandpaper...
Electric hand planer|
Posted by: hodtay on Dec-25-12 9:15 PM (EST)
I've been avoiding trying an electric planer with the associated noise and WRC dust but I guess I should give one a try(I sure like using a hand plane). Any recommendations on which to buy. I guess ease of planer blade sharpening or replacement would be an issue to consider.
Electric hand plane|
Posted by: Jaybabina on Dec-26-12 8:30 AM (EST)
Stanley surform plane with|
Posted by: bartc on Dec-25-12 10:02 PM (EST)
Microplane blade, which is far superior to the Stanley model. Unfortunately, they make it only for the straight blade, not the curved one, but for Greenland you should only need the straigh blade. You can do fine work with this as well as gross removal, BTW. Use the 10" Surform handle that has grips for both hands.
I always enjoyed making greenland|
Posted by: dong on Dec-25-12 10:40 PM (EST)
paddles by hand until it became too hard on my hands. I found that using a power hand planer and a belt sander let me keep making paddles and it worked very fast. I really miss the quietness of using only hand tools.
If you have a jointer...|
Posted by: bnystrom on Dec-26-12 7:23 AM (EST)
...it's easy to use it to cut the initial taper on the blades. I find it will do all four flats in under 10 minutes. WARNING: IF YOU USE THIS METHOD, USE A PUSH BLOCK OR PUSH PAD AND KEEP YOUR FINGERS WELL CLEAR OF THE CUTTER HEAD!
Posted by: hodtay on Dec-26-12 12:21 PM (EST)
From what I've read here I need to give a hand held power planer a try and find that expensive spoke shave I bought for another try. I'm not sure how the rolling taper along the the length of the blade would work with a jointer/planer but I'll play with that too.
Or you could just "man-up"|
Posted by: t.george on Dec-26-12 3:04 PM (EST)
Late answer. Electric plane again.|
Posted by: string on Dec-26-12 6:49 PM (EST)
My Father-in Law gave me a Craftsman that is years old but works great for roughing, then I use a rotary sander for semi-finishing and finally hand sand.
The jointer is only used for...|
Posted by: bnystrom on Dec-27-12 7:33 AM (EST)
love those long ribbons of cedar|
Posted by: qajaqer2 on Dec-27-12 8:30 AM (EST)
Jig saw and a good jack plane. Then a smaller plane and sander.
Power tools=cedar dust-be cautious|
Posted by: ret603 on Dec-27-12 10:20 AM (EST)
Greenland Paddle Carving|
Posted by: old_user on Dec-27-12 10:15 AM (EST)
I carve Greenland paddles and have sold several in North America and Europe. I used to use an old spoke shave my grandfather left me and a smaller No. 64 Stanley Spoke shave to shape my unique soft shoulder. I recently purchased a large Veritas spoke shave but I still use the No. 64 Stanley. The only time I use a plane is to flatten out the cuts made with a spoke shave.
spoke shave, WRC dust|
Posted by: hodtay on Dec-27-12 1:15 PM (EST)
I recently bought a Veritas spoke shave (not the large one) but got impatient with how much slower it was than my No.3 plane (I admit I probably didn't try with the spoke shave enough to develop the necessary skills). I'm holding the plane at such an angle that I'm using only a fraction of the sole length, maybe 3" which allows me to follow the changing taper along the blade face.
Posted by: ret603 on Dec-28-12 9:17 AM (EST)
Posted by: Phrogman on Dec-27-12 9:23 PM (EST)
Although I do a lot of wood working, I opted to make my greenland paddle out of foam then covered it in a carbon sleeve. I glued a couple of layers of the blue foam (used for home contruction), then shaped the paddle with a belt sander and final hand sanding. Didn't take but an hour, I then encased the foam in an expanding carbon sleeve (with epoxy) I did three layers of carbon and got a 20 oz paddle. Cool thing about those sleeves is that you don't have any seams.
Posted by: TomM on Dec-28-12 8:05 PM (EST)
I am in the process of making my first wooden GP but your method sounds interesting.
Posted by: Phrogman on Dec-29-12 8:47 AM (EST)
Posted by: ebanista on Dec-29-12 7:57 PM (EST)
I've been wanting to try something like that. What brand and size sleeve do you use, and where do you buy it? Any epoxy concerns with the foam?How do you finish the open ends?
Posted by: Phrogman on Dec-30-12 5:23 PM (EST)
I've been thinking of this method|
Posted by: bartc on Dec-30-12 6:25 PM (EST)
for a couple of years. I've worked with CF sleeving from Soller before, but not in layup applications. I saw something like this on the Web and was dreaming of teh way to do it with a substrate like foam or even PVC and thin ply (blades). I don't have a vacuum bagger. Can you do this successfully without one?
no vac needed.|
Posted by: Phrogman on Dec-30-12 8:25 PM (EST)
Posted by: ebanista on Dec-30-12 9:30 PM (EST)
Posted by: Phrogman on Dec-31-12 2:12 PM (EST)
Posted by: dajarr on Dec-28-12 1:39 PM (EST)
a power plane for the rough shape, and a low angle block plane for the final shape.