paddles but dents so easily. I use polyester resin on the blades but like the loom finished with spar varnish.Any finish that limits denting that has good feel?
The Moose Rack
Pull-Up Strap Handle Kit
Kayak Deck Gear Bags
|Table of Contents|
|Messages in this Topic|
WRC quarter sawn is more ....|
Posted by: pilotwingz on Dec-19-12 10:21 PM (EST)
Posted by: Bnystrom on Dec-19-12 11:17 PM (EST)
How so? In any pile of 2x4s you're going to find flat sawn, rift sawn and quarter sawn boards. No lumber yard that I've seen charges different prices for different cuts. If you're getting screwed price-wise on quarter sawn 2x4s, buy 4x4s and rip each one into 2 quarter sawn paddle blanks.
yes , cost more definately ....|
Posted by: pilotwingz on Dec-19-12 11:43 PM (EST)
Posted by: gstamer on Dec-21-12 10:24 AM (EST)
If I can't find decent vertical grain WRC, I just go to the box stores or the local lumberyard and find clear 4X4 cedar fence posts with tight grain. You then cut one or (maybe) two GP paddle blanks, orienting the cuts so that you have vertical grain.
When logs are cut in the standard way...|
Posted by: Bnystrom on Dec-23-12 10:13 PM (EST)
...you get a combination of flat sawn, rift sawn and quarter sawn boards. It all comes mixed on a pallet and the yards around here sell it all for the same price. You have to select the boards you want, which can be tedious, but you can get very suitable wood for paddles that way. I've found some pretty exceptional boards, but they aren't common, typically only 2-3% of a pallet load.
Poly is soft|
Posted by: Kanoo on Dec-19-12 11:12 PM (EST)
And a full cure can take a long time. Even green commercial paddles can dent easily before full cure.
some dents will "heal"|
Posted by: gstamer on Dec-19-12 11:28 PM (EST)
You have to see it to believe it but oil finished (and bare) quarter-sawn WRC paddles do dent easily, but unless the wood fibers are actually cut, even large dents often swell back to normal after letting the paddle soak.
Good application for penetrating epoxy|
Posted by: woodonwater on Dec-20-12 4:47 AM (EST)
Have you considered it? Give the paddle a first coat with penetrating or thinned epoxy, maybe even warm the wood first to help draw the epoxy in.
Beauty and Beholders|
Posted by: Kudzu on Dec-20-12 5:03 AM (EST)
A WRC paddle with just enough oil on it to give it some color is a beautiful thing... to the eye and the hand. Sand out the dings every year or so and re-oil.
Posted by: mintjulep on Dec-20-12 8:27 AM (EST)
Posted by: Jaybabina on Dec-20-12 8:33 AM (EST)
WRC has only one advantage - weight.
That paddle's got some stories to tell|
Posted by: TommyC1 on Dec-20-12 5:32 PM (EST)
Yeah I can almost hear it talking!
Polyester resin on wood?? |
Posted by: g2d on Dec-20-12 5:47 PM (EST)
Never worked for me. West, Raka, System 3 epoxy. Is there any commercial paddle maker that uses other than epoxy and high quality varnish?
Thanks; I'm just going to use the |
Posted by: string on Dec-20-12 6:52 PM (EST)
paddle and touch it up as needed.
I don't build GPs but I do use WRC|
Posted by: mornstein on Dec-20-12 8:53 PM (EST)
for most of my single blades. Almost all of my blades are sheathed with FG and epoxy.
I agree but..|
Posted by: Jaybabina on Dec-21-12 8:19 AM (EST)
Polyester is a huge catagory of finishes far beyond the fiberglass laminating stuff with the little bottle of hardener available at boating stores. I can't remember the exact brand but I ran into paddles and canoe wood parts coated with polyesters that were like wood coated in plastic. I'm not a chemist but if you do a search, your computer will explode with all the hits and various polyester coatings out there. They are usually not for the home builders because they get sprayed and can kill you.
Epoxy Resin on...|
Posted by: VK1NF on Dec-21-12 7:54 AM (EST)
...the blades only works for me - I like the feel of bare wood on the shafts. I coat about 2/3 of the blade area - seems to give good protection.
Light as I can find|
Posted by: qajaqer2 on Dec-21-12 8:46 AM (EST)
What 's the big deal with a few dents? I look for light 2 x 4's or 5/4 clear cedar, rip it down the center and laminate a piece of lattis down the middle, Mine have very small diameter looms, thin blades and are around 3" wide. I finish them by rubbing in a light coat of epoxy. Haven't broken one yet. Buy my stock from a local lumber yard. Clear cedar is clear cedar, no price diff. and you can look through the whole stock as long as you put it back the same way.
Posted by: hodtay on Dec-21-12 2:51 PM (EST)
I saw a photo of a paddle String carved. It's beautiful and I can understand why he wants the best protection for it. My suggestion is to keep re-applying an oil finish on a WRC paddle and enjoy the look as it is distressed from used; some people will pay extra for that look.
Posted by: string on Dec-21-12 3:48 PM (EST)