-- Last Updated: Nov-27-12 10:21 PM EST --
I've been fraying the ends of my Werner Player on some rough concrete and rebar in local boney water. It's time to smooth out the ends and clean up the edges. What do I use to take off the rough fibers without losing too much surface or getting too crazy? Is there a product out there to coat, cover, or fill the irregular edge? I'm a woodworker, not a fiberglass guy, so translate for me.
First Need Purifier
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Wetsand w/ 320, done.|
Posted by: onnopaddle on Nov-27-12 11:19 PM (EST)
Posted by: B.inboats on Nov-28-12 1:10 AM (EST)
Besides getting away from those craggy paddling locations, is there a way to further protect the edges? A sealer or some kind or a reinforcement layer that could be applied without looking like junk? Would some kind of resin or epoxy do the trick? I've never used either.
Posted by: mintjulep on Nov-28-12 7:12 AM (EST)
Unless you've taken big chunks out.
Light sanding and|
Posted by: Canuka on Nov-28-12 8:56 AM (EST)
brush on a thin coat of epoxy.
Posted by: 1olddog on Nov-28-12 10:29 AM (EST)
clear acrylic for better uv protection
Posted by: suiram on Nov-28-12 10:46 AM (EST)
some folks apply a layer of epoxy with graphite filler right on the edge for better bashing resistance
West G-flex is thicker, tougher than |
Posted by: ezwater on Nov-28-12 11:00 AM (EST)
regular West 105/205 or similar epoxies. G-flex mixes 1:1 and proportions can be a teensy bit less than precise.
o.k. if you want to go nuts ... go here|
Posted by: onnopaddle on Nov-28-12 3:09 PM (EST)
Done it this way 2x already - works well|
Posted by: Kocho on Nov-28-12 3:55 PM (EST)
I've done this kind of repair with a technique similar to what Pat describes - works really good and is easy to do. I used regular epoxy mixed with chopped carbon strands for thickness/filler (had some small pieces of carbon laying around that I just chopped into about 1mm long pieces with simple kitchen scisors). Used 2 halves of a single plastic lid from a disposable food container. Once dry, the plastic just peels off and a bit of filing with a metal file or a sandpaper block to bring the shape back to where it was and it's done. Very easy, actually, and pretty much can't tell where the repair was on my carbon blades... Since it's going to get chipped again some day, and because the rest of the blade already has plenty of scratches, absolute perfection is not needed, so 600 grit sand paper is more than enough to make it disappear to the touch.
Can't give up the rocks...|
Posted by: B.inboats on Nov-28-12 11:50 PM (EST)
Thanks for all of the suggestions. I'm going to give it a try between outings. The Chain of Rocks on the Mississippi and Dead Carp Drop are at really low levels, so scraping is not an option. Maybe I'll get good at repairing paddles so I can boat more!
My point on the 320 was ....|
Posted by: onnopaddle on Nov-29-12 1:24 AM (EST)
Just use the paddle, its not gonna self destruct for a little bit of hard use.
low bony water is|
Posted by: daggermat on Dec-01-12 5:11 AM (EST)
perfect for poling. No paddle wear that way.
Posted by: aamapes on Nov-29-12 8:04 AM (EST)
Another vote for G-Flex. My old Werner Ikelos was pretty chipped on the blade ends. I sanded and cleaned the ends with acetone, then ran some painter's tape along the edges to make a dam. Next, I applied G-Flex along the edges.
auto parts store|
Posted by: FrankNC on Dec-01-12 12:47 AM (EST)
Door edge trim tape. You'll have to re-glue it with epoxy at some point but the tape lasts and lasts. I notice those that don't use it get smaller blades over the years. Some of them are more than an inch shorter than when new. The rubber tape does not wear much as far as I can tell.
Is tthis it?|
Posted by: Kocho on Dec-01-12 10:05 AM (EST)