Fiberglass paddle repair - Canoeing / Kayaking

Table of Contents

Fiberglass paddle repair - B.inboats - Nov-27-12 10:20 PM
- Wetsand w/ 320, done. - onnopaddle - Nov-27-12 11:19 PM
  - Done? - B.inboats - Nov-28-12 1:10 AM
    - Done - mintjulep - Nov-28-12 7:12 AM
    - Light sanding and - Canuka - Nov-28-12 8:56 AM
      - or - 1olddog - Nov-28-12 10:29 AM
      - and - suiram - Nov-28-12 10:46 AM
- West G-flex is thicker, tougher than - g2d - Nov-28-12 11:00 AM
  - o.k. if you want to go nuts ... go here - onnopaddle - Nov-28-12 3:09 PM
    - Done it this way 2x already - works well - Kocho - Nov-28-12 3:55 PM
      - Can't give up the rocks... - B.inboats - Nov-28-12 11:50 PM
        
        My point on the 320 was .... - onnopaddle - Nov-29-12 1:24 AM
        low bony water is - daggermat - Dec-01-12 5:11 AM
- G-Flex again - aamapes - Nov-29-12 8:04 AM
  - auto parts store - FrankNC - Dec-01-12 12:47 AM
    - Is tthis it? - Kocho - Dec-01-12 10:05 AM

Messages in this Topic

  Wetsand w/ 320, done.
  Posted by: onnopaddle on Nov-27-12 11:19 PM (EST)

  Done?
  Posted by: B.inboats on Nov-28-12 1:10 AM (EST)

Besides getting away from those craggy paddling locations, is there a way to further protect the edges? A sealer or some kind or a reinforcement layer that could be applied without looking like junk? Would some kind of resin or epoxy do the trick? I've never used either.

  Done
  Posted by: mintjulep on Nov-28-12 7:12 AM (EST)

Unless you've taken big chunks out.

  Light sanding and
  Posted by: Canuka on Nov-28-12 8:56 AM (EST)

brush on a thin coat of epoxy.

  or
  Posted by: 1olddog on Nov-28-12 10:29 AM (EST)

clear acrylic for better uv protection

  and
  Posted by: suiram on Nov-28-12 10:46 AM (EST)

some folks apply a layer of epoxy with graphite filler right on the edge for better bashing resistance
If black is not your color, silica filler will be quite effective

  West G-flex is thicker, tougher than
  Posted by: g2d on Nov-28-12 11:00 AM (EST)

regular West 105/205 or similar epoxies. G-flex mixes 1:1 and proportions can be a teensy bit less than precise.

The thicker quality means that you can spread it along the edge and it will form a more robust bead. If it drools the wrong way, just sand off what you don't want.

Try not to bash and scrape against rocks....

  o.k. if you want to go nuts ... go here
  Posted by: onnopaddle on Nov-28-12 3:09 PM (EST)

www.surfskiracing.com

Scroll down to contributors on lower right and click on Patrick

  Done it this way 2x already - works well
  Posted by: Kocho on Nov-28-12 3:55 PM (EST)

I've done this kind of repair with a technique similar to what Pat describes - works really good and is easy to do. I used regular epoxy mixed with chopped carbon strands for thickness/filler (had some small pieces of carbon laying around that I just chopped into about 1mm long pieces with simple kitchen scisors). Used 2 halves of a single plastic lid from a disposable food container. Once dry, the plastic just peels off and a bit of filing with a metal file or a sandpaper block to bring the shape back to where it was and it's done. Very easy, actually, and pretty much can't tell where the repair was on my carbon blades... Since it's going to get chipped again some day, and because the rest of the blade already has plenty of scratches, absolute perfection is not needed, so 600 grit sand paper is more than enough to make it disappear to the touch.

  Can't give up the rocks...
  Posted by: B.inboats on Nov-28-12 11:50 PM (EST)

Thanks for all of the suggestions. I'm going to give it a try between outings. The Chain of Rocks on the Mississippi and Dead Carp Drop are at really low levels, so scraping is not an option. Maybe I'll get good at repairing paddles so I can boat more!

  My point on the 320 was ....
  Posted by: onnopaddle on Nov-29-12 1:24 AM (EST)

Just use the paddle, its not gonna self destruct for a little bit of hard use.

  low bony water is
  Posted by: daggermat on Dec-01-12 5:11 AM (EST)

perfect for poling. No paddle wear that way.

  G-Flex again
  Posted by: aamapes on Nov-29-12 8:04 AM (EST)

Another vote for G-Flex. My old Werner Ikelos was pretty chipped on the blade ends. I sanded and cleaned the ends with acetone, then ran some painter's tape along the edges to make a dam. Next, I applied G-Flex along the edges.

After curing for a day, I removed the tape and sanded down the epoxy to form a new edge. It's been staying on there just fine, and protects the edge from new dings. Give it a try.

Alan

  auto parts store
  Posted by: FrankNC on Dec-01-12 12:47 AM (EST)

Door edge trim tape. You'll have to re-glue it with epoxy at some point but the tape lasts and lasts. I notice those that don't use it get smaller blades over the years. Some of them are more than an inch shorter than when new. The rubber tape does not wear much as far as I can tell.

  Is tthis it?
  Posted by: Kocho on Dec-01-12 10:05 AM (EST)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-media/product-gallery/B00650NY6G/ref=cm_ciu_pdp_images_2?ie=UTF8&index=2&isremote=0

I've seen door guard trim, which looks like a U-channel plastic piece. These work well on flat thin blades, but don't fit blades like the AT2 for instance.

The above link seems to be to a real "tape" as opposed to a plastic trim piece. Is that what you are referring to?

	Done? Posted by: B.inboats on Nov-28-12 1:10 AM (EST)
	Besides getting away from those craggy paddling locations, is there a way to further protect the edges? A sealer or some kind or a reinforcement layer that could be applied without looking like junk? Would some kind of resin or epoxy do the trick? I've never used either.

	Done Posted by: mintjulep on Nov-28-12 7:12 AM (EST)
	Unless you've taken big chunks out.

	Light sanding and Posted by: Canuka on Nov-28-12 8:56 AM (EST)
	brush on a thin coat of epoxy.

	or Posted by: 1olddog on Nov-28-12 10:29 AM (EST)
	clear acrylic for better uv protection

	and Posted by: suiram on Nov-28-12 10:46 AM (EST)
	some folks apply a layer of epoxy with graphite filler right on the edge for better bashing resistance If black is not your color, silica filler will be quite effective

	West G-flex is thicker, tougher than Posted by: g2d on Nov-28-12 11:00 AM (EST)
	regular West 105/205 or similar epoxies. G-flex mixes 1:1 and proportions can be a teensy bit less than precise. The thicker quality means that you can spread it along the edge and it will form a more robust bead. If it drools the wrong way, just sand off what you don't want. Try not to bash and scrape against rocks....

	o.k. if you want to go nuts ... go here Posted by: onnopaddle on Nov-28-12 3:09 PM (EST)
	www.surfskiracing.com Scroll down to contributors on lower right and click on Patrick

	Done it this way 2x already - works well Posted by: Kocho on Nov-28-12 3:55 PM (EST)
	I've done this kind of repair with a technique similar to what Pat describes - works really good and is easy to do. I used regular epoxy mixed with chopped carbon strands for thickness/filler (had some small pieces of carbon laying around that I just chopped into about 1mm long pieces with simple kitchen scisors). Used 2 halves of a single plastic lid from a disposable food container. Once dry, the plastic just peels off and a bit of filing with a metal file or a sandpaper block to bring the shape back to where it was and it's done. Very easy, actually, and pretty much can't tell where the repair was on my carbon blades... Since it's going to get chipped again some day, and because the rest of the blade already has plenty of scratches, absolute perfection is not needed, so 600 grit sand paper is more than enough to make it disappear to the touch.

	Can't give up the rocks... Posted by: B.inboats on Nov-28-12 11:50 PM (EST)
	Thanks for all of the suggestions. I'm going to give it a try between outings. The Chain of Rocks on the Mississippi and Dead Carp Drop are at really low levels, so scraping is not an option. Maybe I'll get good at repairing paddles so I can boat more!

	My point on the 320 was .... Posted by: onnopaddle on Nov-29-12 1:24 AM (EST)
	Just use the paddle, its not gonna self destruct for a little bit of hard use.

	low bony water is Posted by: daggermat on Dec-01-12 5:11 AM (EST)
	perfect for poling. No paddle wear that way.

	G-Flex again Posted by: aamapes on Nov-29-12 8:04 AM (EST)
	Another vote for G-Flex. My old Werner Ikelos was pretty chipped on the blade ends. I sanded and cleaned the ends with acetone, then ran some painter's tape along the edges to make a dam. Next, I applied G-Flex along the edges. After curing for a day, I removed the tape and sanded down the epoxy to form a new edge. It's been staying on there just fine, and protects the edge from new dings. Give it a try. Alan

	auto parts store Posted by: FrankNC on Dec-01-12 12:47 AM (EST)
	Door edge trim tape. You'll have to re-glue it with epoxy at some point but the tape lasts and lasts. I notice those that don't use it get smaller blades over the years. Some of them are more than an inch shorter than when new. The rubber tape does not wear much as far as I can tell.

	Is tthis it? Posted by: Kocho on Dec-01-12 10:05 AM (EST)
	http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-media/product-gallery/B00650NY6G/ref=cm_ciu_pdp_images_2?ie=UTF8&index=2&isremote=0 I've seen door guard trim, which looks like a U-channel plastic piece. These work well on flat thin blades, but don't fit blades like the AT2 for instance. The above link seems to be to a real "tape" as opposed to a plastic trim piece. Is that what you are referring to?