I've just oiled the gunwales on the SRT. They look pretty. But am I just fooling myself? Is it just cosmetic? And I don't doubt that the oil protects the surface, but I can't help but wonder about the surface I don't see. So the question is, how far do you go when you oil?
For example, do you remove the seat truss and thwarts, so your oil can get those hidden surfaces? And further, this boat has gunwales that encapsulate the edges of the hull, rather than the sandwich type where from the top you see distinct wood-hull-wood layers. It strikes me that when the boat is upside down, the water runs along the hull and enters the gunwale assembly. Do you need to remove the gunwales and oil in there, too?
If the answer is yes, there's going to be an SRT for sale.
Just wondering what other folks do.
Touring Kayak Paddles
Full Size Sail Rig
|Table of Contents|
|Messages in this Topic|
Posted by: guideboatguy on Nov-26-12 11:27 PM (EST)
Posted by: bowler1 on Nov-27-12 5:52 AM (EST)
It's like anything else.|
Posted by: tktoo on Nov-27-12 6:35 AM (EST)
If you dwell on it for too long, you'll start to lose perspective.
I guess it depends who does it...|
Posted by: coronaboy on Nov-27-12 3:55 PM (EST)
I went to a freestyle symposium a few years ago and talked (as well as showed him my boat, a Magic(Bell) and he wanted close to $600 to regunnel it at the time... He's an extremely competent woodworker as he makes and sells MANY paddles and, of which I purchased one, but I couldn't justify the expense. I bought the canoe and a beautiful Nashwaak cherry paddle for $800, thanks to a former poster(NT)'s tip. the previous owner had drilled some holes in the gunnels that had started to rot and I thought I might just bring the boat back to original condition, but decided the next owner could have that chance.....You know, the Magic is a great design, but I haven't even paddled it in a couple years...I've sortof moved on to daytrippers and it sits unused...
OK, maybe I lowballed it a little.|
Posted by: tktoo on Nov-27-12 5:27 PM (EST)
But you're right, there are varying levels of both competence and professionalism.
$450-600 average price (nm)|
Posted by: openboater on Nov-27-12 6:58 PM (EST)
Still seems fair, though I think|
Posted by: tktoo on Nov-28-12 11:06 AM (EST)
I either screwed myself on the hourly rate or gave myself a steep discount!
depends on how you store the boat|
Posted by: pblanc on Nov-27-12 6:57 AM (EST)
Oil, varnish, or polyurethane finish on gunwales is more than cosmetic. Ash has a pretty open grain and bare ash will over time soak up moisture, split, turn gray, and eventually rot without it. But if you store your boat in a protected area and especially if you dry up any trapped water before storing it, that deterioration could take a very long time.
Looks like two choices|
Posted by: booztalkin on Nov-28-12 12:51 AM (EST)
Digesting what all of you have written, my conclusion is the SRT needs to be stored out of the weather. Practically speaking, that means inside my house, since I don't have any outbuildings.
How about this idea?|
Posted by: guideboatguy on Nov-28-12 1:09 AM (EST)
I don't know if this idea fits with your notion of aesthetics (or perhaps more important, those of your spouse), but at the cabin where my dad and his wife lived the last 15 years or so, he put interlocking sheets of metal roofing right under the deck. They were slightly sloped so rain that came through the deck ran off to one side, just like with a "real roof". You can't see it from above, but from underneath it definitely looks like a hillbilly solution to a storage problem. It's very cheap, easy and effective though.
I thought of that, too.|
Posted by: booztalkin on Nov-28-12 11:18 AM (EST)
Although I was thinking of the 2x8 sheets of corrugated plastic. It's sort of complicated though. I'd need to lower the racks a bit, install some structure to hold up the "roof", do something about routing water that would fall in one place instead of spread around. Much easier to just bring the boat in and find a place to hang it. It's a choose your evil kind of choice.
Posted by: sissy103 on Nov-28-12 6:50 AM (EST)
I kept my Vermont Tupper in the living room for a year, and that was a real PITA. Now I keep it in a Public Storage unit across the highway along with my other toys, and that's a lot better.
Prior boat with wood gunwales|
Posted by: booztalkin on Nov-28-12 11:35 AM (EST)
I'm with you, Sissy. I enjoy working on boats, but really, I'd rather play in them than work on them.
Posted by: pgeorg on Nov-28-12 8:41 AM (EST)
is the word for wooden gunwales on boats that have to be stored outside. No matter what you do, they're gonna rot over time - you can slow the process, but ya can't stop it. I do wish that the makers of the high-end canoes that most of eventually end up with would offer aluminum gunwales.
Shame, shame, shame|
Posted by: Glenn_MacGrady on Nov-28-12 11:12 PM (EST)
Chip, you admit you have a garage. I'm reading into this discussion that you actually put vehicles in your garage instead of stocking it full of boats on racks.
Trim Construction and Maintenance|
Posted by: CEWilson on Dec-01-12 10:54 AM (EST)
Mike's wood finish thread...|
Posted by: steve_in_idaho on Dec-01-12 2:55 PM (EST)
...sadly, I believe, evaporated in the death of Solotripping.com.
Oh, I'll bet|
Posted by: CEWilson on Dec-01-12 8:29 PM (EST)
Mike still has the data. This might even be a good time to......
Posted by: kayamedic on Dec-01-12 8:33 PM (EST)
many of us former solotrippers are back online at canoetripping.net. Mike is there too.
I'm sure he does too|
Posted by: Andy_Szymczak on Dec-11-12 1:17 PM (EST)
Mike just recently got a digital camera, so his wood test photo's are probably actually print photo's that he has squirelled away somewhere. I think he originally had the photo's posted on webshot's, which is now gone as well.
Postscript & Thanks|
Posted by: booztalkin on Dec-11-12 11:50 AM (EST)
Thanks to all responders for the info provided.
Posted by: pblanc on Dec-11-12 12:59 PM (EST)
Unprotected ash is simply not very rot resistant when exposed to the elements. It has a relatively open grain that soaks up moisture. Repeated exposure to damp opens the grain more and eventually the wood splits. The ends of outwales, where the end grain is exposed, is particularly prone to this process, and obviously, any hold drilled into the wood is a point for water entry into the heart of the wood.