With the new canoe having all wood gunnels ect. what is a good oil to use in the care of it? more importantly what is the best choice to get frome lowes tru value or home improvment stores.
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penetrating oil or varnish|
Posted by: pblanc on Nov-02-12 10:08 PM (EST)
Some prefer a bright finish (polyurethane or varnish) on wood gunwales and it does have more staying power than penetrating oil, but it tends to get scratched.
I wish it had worked out that way for me|
Posted by: Canuka on Nov-03-12 9:11 AM (EST)
I have found that|
Posted by: pblanc on Nov-03-12 11:32 AM (EST)
repeated applications of Watco Teak oil tend to darken light colored ash a bit over time, at least relative to regular Watco oil. Might be the varnish in the Watco teak oil ambering a bit with aging.
As noted in another thread, oil finishes|
Posted by: ezwater on Nov-03-12 1:27 PM (EST)
in general contain a varnish component. The thinnest oil I've used, Minwax 209 clear, contains a varnish component.
We use tung oil on ours|
Posted by: roanguy on Nov-03-12 5:52 AM (EST)
But if you slide your canoe on your vehicle racks, you'll have to use it yearly.
It's all about maintenance.|
Posted by: tktoo on Nov-03-12 7:46 AM (EST)
Just about anything will work if you reapply it when necessary.
Posted by: paddletothesea on Nov-03-12 9:36 AM (EST)
I use watco oil on my MR explorer. I even unscrew the gunnels and get behind it with rags or some narrow applicator
Posted by: thebob.com on Nov-03-12 11:16 AM (EST)
Watco comes in many stains|
Posted by: Glenn_MacGrady on Nov-03-12 3:01 PM (EST)
If you are trying to change the color of light wood when using Watco, keep in mind that you can get Watco Teak (my favorite) with many different stains mixed in. I'm currently using medium walnut.
OK I'll be the odd ball...|
Posted by: windwalker on Nov-05-12 8:08 PM (EST)
I use a mixture of 50% turpentine and 50% linseed oil.
Posted by: tktoo on Nov-06-12 7:36 AM (EST)
There's nothing oddball about the traditional homebrew.
Posted by: pblanc on Nov-06-12 10:50 AM (EST)
I think that is why some folks add vinegar to the mixture.
Posted by: wildernesswebb on Nov-06-12 8:52 AM (EST)
Watco yes - Deks Olje yes yes|
Posted by: mvbrando on Nov-06-12 2:22 PM (EST)
Posted by: pblanc on Nov-06-12 2:49 PM (EST)
The nicest looking finish I ever got was with Deks Olje but it has sort of disappeared from stores in the US.
About a month ago|
Posted by: mvbrando on Nov-06-12 3:15 PM (EST)
I bought Deks 1 and 2 from here:
Deks Olje ingredients ...|
Posted by: Glenn_MacGrady on Nov-06-12 4:06 PM (EST)
... are essentially the same as Watco -- linseed oil, varnish and solvents/driers -- though in different proportions, according to the material safety data sheets.
Ingredients may be similar|
Posted by: pblanc on Nov-06-12 5:28 PM (EST)
but the results are different.
I'm really surprised to hear|
Posted by: mvbrando on Nov-06-12 9:12 PM (EST)
Watco and Deks behave quite differently|
Posted by: pblanc on Nov-07-12 2:36 AM (EST)
Penetratingly ambiguous stuff|
Posted by: Glenn_MacGrady on Nov-07-12 12:30 PM (EST)
I have no position on which of these "oils" produce better results for different users on different woods.
Deks versus Watco versus varnish|
Posted by: pblanc on Nov-07-12 12:48 PM (EST)
I think "penetrating oil" is ...|
Posted by: Glenn_MacGrady on Nov-07-12 1:29 PM (EST)
... largely a marketing term. The oil in all these mixtures and in all varnishes -- which often is linseed -- surely penetrates somewhat. But how much penetration is going on?
I agree, Glenn.|
Posted by: tktoo on Nov-07-12 2:10 PM (EST)
That is exactly why I now use CPES|
Posted by: canoeist11 on Nov-07-12 3:31 PM (EST)
I find the epoxy penetrating sealer outlasts anything else I have tried. I use marine varnish over it just to enhance aesthetics, and the varnish can be easily touched up. Not inexpensive, but the longevity more than pays for itself.
That looks like it's got potential.|
Posted by: Yanoer on Nov-07-12 3:35 PM (EST)
Epoxy - what about sun damage?|
Posted by: Glenn_MacGrady on Nov-07-12 3:46 PM (EST)
As I recall, epoxy can't protect itself or what's underneath from UV damage. I vividly recall Mike McCrea's epoxy-only test panel.
The varnish provides UV protection.|
Posted by: pblanc on Nov-07-12 4:16 PM (EST)
Yes, epoxy under varnish works well and looks nice. I built two wooden sea kayaks. The decks were 'glassed with epoxy and then varnished. No problem with UV degradation of the epoxy. And epoxy does work wonderfully well as a wood sealer.
Well, I agree in part|
Posted by: pblanc on Nov-07-12 4:36 PM (EST)
Duped re "oil"|
Posted by: Glenn_MacGrady on Nov-07-12 5:06 PM (EST)
Yes, I think most of us have been duped about the so-called penetration and polymerization of oil mixtures.
Posted by: pblanc on Nov-07-12 5:43 PM (EST)
I don't know if the difference is in the type of oil used or the solvent, or some other ingredient, but Watco and Deks D1 behave very differently.
Sure, all of that makes some sense.|
Posted by: tktoo on Nov-07-12 8:57 PM (EST)
While most of these wipe-on oil/varnish products are essentially similar, I'm sure that some perform better than others. Most of us are not after fine furniture finishes on our canoe trim, however, and are just happy to have easy to apply and effective protection afforded by the stuff they sell at the corner hardware. There are others still that swear by traditional spar varnish and they would be completely correct, too... for themselves.
Posted by: Deuce on Nov-06-12 4:01 PM (EST)
My compliments. I've been using Watco on my Explorer's ash gunwales, and while I like the way it makes them look I might have to pony up for some of that if it will get me those kinds of results. Much longer lasting too.
Posted by: rblturtle on Nov-08-12 7:02 AM (EST)
I have limited experience oiling gunnels and use Watco twice a year-I like the smell. I do have a lot of experince with finishes on reproduction muzzeloading rifles. The needs are similar-weather resistance,durability,beauty ect. There are literally hundreds of different formulas and products for gunstock finishes. The one I find clearly best is called "Permalyn gun stock finish". It penetrates and can produce any look fron hand rubbed to glossy. There is a sealer that is used before the finish coat.Its big defference from others is that it is practally impervious to water or solvents and very durible. It would make the perfect gunnel finish and probibly last the life of the boat and can be spot retouched if gouged. The problem is that is is REAL expensive.It doesn't smell as good a Watco,but not bad.