Wood paddles get dinged no matter how careful you are and soft woods like pine and WRC are really bad for getting beat up.
A friend asked me about some clear tape made for protecting the edges of helicopter blades; I have never heard of it.
I typically use epoxy.
Any other suggestions?
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|Messages in this Topic|
I use epoxy glue|
Posted by: gnarlydog on Oct-30-12 7:23 PM (EST)
with WRC paddles I use epoxy glue (microfibre/epoxy mix tinted to match wood color).
Posted by: booztalkin on Oct-30-12 9:47 PM (EST)
Posted by: guideboatguy on Oct-31-12 10:23 AM (EST)
Posted by: vic on Nov-01-12 4:57 PM (EST)
Here is a link to Darryl's webshots album on paddle making. Does this help?
That's the one|
Posted by: guideboatguy on Nov-02-12 8:06 AM (EST)
Taking a quick look at it, I don't see an explanation of what the resin is, but perhaps someone here knows.
Helicopter tape is useless|
Posted by: bnystrom on Oct-31-12 7:30 AM (EST)
It's rather soft and it shreds on rocks, barnacles and such. Don't waste your money.
Similar to epoxy|
Posted by: guideboatguy on Oct-31-12 10:33 AM (EST)
The best edge protection I've had is ash|
Posted by: ezwater on Oct-31-12 10:05 PM (EST)
glued to the edges of my Mitchell slalom paddle. The paddle is now roughly 16 years old. The ash is hard, and tough, and best of all, easily repaired with small amounts of epoxy. (G-flex would be the preferred kind today.) I haven't had to do any repairs.
Oak works, too|
Posted by: bnystrom on Nov-01-12 7:11 AM (EST)
I put oak edges on a paddle that I had trashed while paddling in sea ice. The oak edging took a beating for several years but showed virtually no wear.
Ash n Oak ... What was the finish|
Posted by: onnopaddle on Nov-01-12 12:53 PM (EST)
you used ? ... Were they glassed over, did glass wrap edges ? Or simple brushed, sprayed on finish over the wood ? If it got dinged, did finish stay on ? How thick was it ... Thick = blade width addition.
The ash edging was not glassed, but |
Posted by: ezwater on Nov-01-12 4:25 PM (EST)
probably Mitchell ran the epoxy over the edges before varnishing.
I used an oil-varnish blend|
Posted by: bnystrom on Nov-02-12 7:11 AM (EST)
It's the same 50:50 blend of tung oil and varnish that I use on all of my paddles. The finish does wear off, but it's quick and easy to renew. The underlying oak is hard enough that it never wore appreciably.
Ash makes a lot of sense.|
Posted by: steve_in_idaho on Nov-02-12 5:11 AM (EST)
My ash canoe pole gets scraped and bashed on rocks a lot, and doesn't show much wear for it. Working with ash (such as rounding stock for a pole) dulls your tools faster than a lot of woods. There's a hint.
Ash shines for steam-bending.|
Posted by: tktoo on Nov-02-12 11:09 AM (EST)
It shouldn't dull your tools though. I've never noticed a difference anyway.
All wood dulls tool steel.|
Posted by: steve_in_idaho on Nov-02-12 12:45 PM (EST)
Some slower than others. Some steels dull slower than others. But process enough wood and you will notice it. I'm pretty finicky about sharp tools. That's not any reason to avoid hardwoods where they are appropriate though.
You know what I meant.|
Posted by: tktoo on Nov-02-12 1:29 PM (EST)
And nobody's more anal about sharp tools than I am.
Posted by: steve_in_idaho on Nov-02-12 2:13 PM (EST)
...so long as you know what *I* meant. ;-)
Try teak in comparison.|
Posted by: tktoo on Nov-02-12 3:34 PM (EST)
That stuff is as bad for edge tools as it is for your wallet.
Harder to steam bend and glue, too, no?|
Posted by: ezwater on Nov-02-12 4:31 PM (EST)
I think you're right.|
Posted by: tktoo on Nov-03-12 10:54 AM (EST)
I used it to replank the sole of our Ensign. I used a block plane to relieve the edges with a slight chamfer and to clean up the long curves on the outboard planks. Teak is not especially hard-working, but I was surprised at how quickly it dulled my plane iron.
The reason teak is tough on tools...|
Posted by: Bnystrom on Nov-04-12 9:36 AM (EST)
...is that it contains a silica, which is essentially sand. Given that, it's no wonder.
I won't buy tropicals unless necessary.|
Posted by: tktoo on Nov-04-12 10:02 AM (EST)
Posted by: steve_in_idaho on Nov-02-12 4:39 PM (EST)
I will probably be using some teak soon for a little work on the sailboat. Thanks for the heads-up.
automotive door guard|
Posted by: Mcimes on Nov-01-12 5:15 PM (EST)
Door guard advantage - cushionining|
Posted by: Kocho on Nov-02-12 4:18 PM (EST)
Epoxy-finsihed edges will crack and chip with hard blows on rocks, even if there is a hard wood, Dynel, or other sort of reinforcement. They will also simply wear off over time. The door edge provides a bit of cushioning to minimize and eliminate chips. It can be easily replaced preiorically.
fiberglass and epoxy?|
Posted by: melenas on Nov-01-12 8:45 PM (EST)
that's what I used not knowing any better after the bare wood started showing up just above where the Rockguard ends on my BB Espresso Plus, then varnish. Maybe the glass doesn't add anything above just epoxy alone?
Glass fibers will add "something". |
Posted by: ezwater on Nov-01-12 11:25 PM (EST)
And mixing in some Kevlar strands will reduce the chance of chipping pieces out of your edging.
I rarely use ash for edging|
Posted by: mornstein on Nov-04-12 9:35 AM (EST)
Ash is tough and steam bends well however hickory and white oak are tougher yet. They are my preferred woods for edging.
Posted by: tktoo on Nov-04-12 6:34 PM (EST)
Thanks for the clarification.
Insist on Dynel Edges |
Posted by: clydehedlund on Nov-04-12 6:17 PM (EST)
I have many wooden canoe paddles, but most are not protective around the side edges. The bottom edges are usually protected, but the sides get chewed up when paddling outrigger, which means hours of sanding and varnishing. The wooden canoe paddles that have their entire edge covered by Dynel cloth rarely get damaged, especially when used by kids.
Those of us who have worked with |
Posted by: ezwater on Nov-06-12 7:42 PM (EST)
different boat cloths are not uniformly convinced. Dynel is great when frictional wear is the problem (though is absorbs a lot of resin and is not that strong), but damage to paddle edges caused by *adults* involves not friction, but sharp, very localized compression force.
So Far So Good |
Posted by: clydehedlund on Nov-07-12 3:40 PM (EST)
On a kid's Kialoa outrigger canoe paddle, the Dynell edging is working out better than expected, and saving me a lot of time and work repairing edges. Of course, as technique improves, there's less damage.
I used Ipe on the last one ........|
Posted by: pilotwingz on Nov-06-12 7:04 PM (EST)