Trailering my new to me Xplore over a rough road I've managed to pop some gel-coat off the deck. Will I risk further damage using the boat and getting that damaged area wet before I repair it sometime this winter?
Pull-Up Strap Handle Kit
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Posted by: mintjulep on Oct-05-12 7:53 AM (EST)
If things are all done properly, there is nothing that will be damaged by water.
How deep and exactly how did it pop?|
Posted by: Celia on Oct-05-12 8:33 AM (EST)
Off to the glass or equivalent layer is something I'd suggest you fix sooner rather than later, just to reduce the possibility of water finding invisible cracks that can let it get between layers.
Repair or not repair|
Posted by: fastyak on Oct-07-12 1:41 AM (EST)
Posted by: edzep on Oct-07-12 9:17 AM (EST)
I've spent a lot of time on boatbuilder boards. The word there, on silicone, is _never_ use it on any area that may need any kind of repair. This is because it can never be fully removed; there will always be some kind of trace left behind, interfering with the bonding of your materials.
Posted by: scott_f on Oct-07-12 12:10 PM (EST)
Yup, never use silicone. My used Romany S came from the factory without a seat and the original owner had used silicone to glue a foam seat in. It took hours of scraping and another layer of glass around the seat area to get rid of the silicone and damage fom scraping it off, but you can still see where it used to be as something in the silicone soaked right through the fiberglass (it looks like a wet spot). Nasty stuff!
If there is a core material, it will be |
Posted by: g2d on Oct-07-12 5:57 PM (EST)
closed cell and not able to get "waterlogged." I have a slalom boat where the deck is foam sandwiched between single layers of Kevlar and epoxy. That skin gets cracked occasionally, but no waterlogging occurs.
Posted by: scott_f on Oct-07-12 3:44 AM (EST)
I have used some clear waterproof duct tape to cover areas where glass was showing and it proved to keep the area dry. The damaged spots were as large a quarter and below the water line. I put a little piece of paper under the tape to see if water did get in as soaked paper would be quite obvious, but it stayed bone dry. It lasted a few months of paddling before I got around to fixing the gelcoat.
Posted by: Spaf on Oct-07-12 9:41 AM (EST)
It's not a new boat. I bought it used at New York Kayak Co. and have informed the owner of the issue. He says Tiderace would fix if a manufacturing defect but not if it was a result of impact.
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Doesn't look too bad|
Posted by: scott_f on Oct-07-12 12:22 PM (EST)
I have had very similar damage on the hulls of my boats. Those cracks are very common from impacts around the bulkhead. If you do the repair yourself be sure to sand a bevel that goes down to the glass along the cracks (isnad the cracks out). Also bevel the damaged area. I use a dremel with a 'V' shaped grinding bit. This will make it look worse, but gelcoat shrinks as it cures, so it needs to be built up a little higher than the surrounding area. If you just put gelcoat into the area as it looks now, it will draw away from the edges as it cures.
How much padding is on the Jbars?|
Posted by: Celia on Oct-07-12 12:39 PM (EST)
You hit it|
Posted by: LeeG on Oct-07-12 2:12 PM (EST)
I'd put 3/4" minicell on those racks given the bouncing that trailer is doing compared to a roof rack insulated by shocks and 4000lbs of vehicle.
ah, and on that trailer|
Posted by: edzep on Oct-07-12 2:30 PM (EST)
...check to see if it's over-sprung, as many light trailers are. OP may be able to remove a leaf from the springs, to get a softer ride.
Posted by: Spaf on Oct-07-12 10:06 PM (EST)
There isn't much padding. I already put on a pair of saddles for the Xplore. The Fathom fits well in the J-bars with the flat chine (?) resting level on the bottom. I will put some more material on there.
Posted by: yetiman on Oct-07-12 6:30 PM (EST)
I have a Current Designs Solstice GT that I bought used from Rutabaga in 1996 with a similar mark like your first picture, and another one three times as big.
Posted by: Spaf on Oct-07-12 10:11 PM (EST)
Thanks for the responses. I was pretty sure it wasn't the end of the world. I'll get the trailer set up a bit better and, when I get around to it, try my hand at spreading some polyester gel-coat.
gel coat repair isn't hard|
Posted by: celia on Oct-08-12 8:27 AM (EST)
Doing a repair that will hold up is fairly easy, and you should do it sooner rather than later lest the cracks and repair area increase. It is making it look pretty that is time consuming, and the smaller the repair area the easier that is.
gel coat is quite simple to work with|
Posted by: CapeFear on Oct-08-12 8:34 AM (EST)
The consistency of paint, except it sets up rather suddenly after several minutes. It's as easy to drip that in as any other type of glue, goop, or sealant, so I would never understand trying to seal it with something different. The most time consuming part is picking the stuff up, setting the kayak and supplies up to do the repair, and putting everything away. You have to pick up the stuff and prepare the area for whatever goop you put in anyway. I found the seemingly widespread trepidation towards working with gelcoat for these type of repairs to be completely unfounded.
Posted by: rusty125 on Oct-10-12 6:49 PM (EST)