Soon to be embarking on creating a greenland paddle. The first one would be for someone more into colors than the natural wood finish...ideally something that would match her fiberglass kayak - yellow w/ red trim....thinking for the paddle, maybe yellow with a red strip down the middle....
Was thinking painting the paddle then coating with a few coats polyurethane would be the way to go? If so, do I have to use marine epoxy paint, or could I get away with some Krylon? For the Polyurethane, pretty much whatever from Home Depot should be ok? better recommendations?
From reading a few threads - it looks like I would need to do atleast 4-5 coats of the polyurethane? with the last coating followed by some sanding/000 steel wool on the loom for some grip?
4-5 layers of polyurethane should make the tips fairly resistant to damage? Any idea how much more the paddle with weigh with this much polyurethane?
A wood question - the big box stores near me only seem to stock "white wood" in the 2x4s and larger (no cedar to be found) - would this wood be ok to use?
Thanks in advance!,
Sport Cases (Electronics)
Electric Kayak Motor
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Posted by: mintjulep on Sep-24-12 1:01 PM (EST)
Don't buy mystery wood at the big box store. Find a real lumberyard and get Western Red Cedar or Sitka Spruce.
Posted by: edzep on Sep-24-12 1:03 PM (EST)
White pine would work, if you can find a clear piece, possibly to cut out of a 2x6 or bigger, if you don't get lucky with a 2x4. Fir would be heavier.
wood is the foundation....|
Posted by: gstamer on Sep-24-12 1:46 PM (EST)
If this paddle will actually be used, rather than be a pretty wall-hanger, or "prop", you need quality wood. The wrong wood or cut can warp, can be too flexible and can be too heavy.
Thanks Everyone - paint/finish question?|
Posted by: kayak_bob on Sep-24-12 3:02 PM (EST)
Thank you for everyone chiming in!
Posted by: landsharc on Sep-24-12 3:19 PM (EST)
I have gone through 3 home depots in my area in the past and looked through 50 2x4's to come up with maybe 3 cedar boards I would use. Had better luck with 2x6'. The lumber yards I called would get them for me if I wanted but I had to pay up front sight unseen. have fun hunting.
Don't Do It|
Posted by: Kudzu on Sep-24-12 5:45 PM (EST)
No paint. No epoxy. Just a light coat of tung oil or fake tung oil to give the wood some color. When you park your paddle on the deck a hard surface scratches the hell out of the gelcoat. Oiled wood doesn't.
Posted by: qajaqer2 on Sep-24-12 5:49 PM (EST)
A hard varnish or paint finish will also be more slippery to hold.
don't do it part 2|
Posted by: RavenWing on Sep-25-12 1:17 PM (EST)
a hard finish like polyurethane or varnish frequently leads to blisters. On most women's hands the skin is frequently thinner and not as callused as a men's hands would be, so the likelihood of blisters is greater.
Posted by: hodtay on Sep-24-12 11:51 PM (EST)
The warehouse home improvement stores have clear 1" pine boards. Consider gluing up two clear pine boards face to face to make your paddle blank. You might consider the more exotic western red cedar for your second paddle.
I am on my 8th paddle and 7 were made|
Posted by: string on Sep-25-12 1:17 PM (EST)
by laminating the clear 1" X 4" boards from HD. All that takes is some good glue and a few clamps. The boards are $9 each.
Rough Grain Western Red Cedar?|
Posted by: kayak_bob on Sep-25-12 12:04 AM (EST)
Posted by: bartc on Sep-25-12 9:05 AM (EST)
Laminating will also help with warping|
Posted by: Kocho on Sep-25-12 12:22 PM (EST)
Especially with pine, you will likely get some twist over time if you do not laminate. WRC seems a lot less likely to bend on you.
Posted by: kayak_bob on Sep-25-12 12:42 PM (EST)
I don't know how the ones I saw were don|
Posted by: Kocho on Sep-25-12 2:50 PM (EST)
If you seal the smoothly sanded wood with primer, then paint some enamel or automotive paint, that would cover the wood grain completely. Then a few layers of polyurethane for bump protection, then finish with some automotive clear coat for UV resistance if the poly is not already UV stable. It will be quick and easy. Not sure how it will hold-up over time or when banged against the boat or rocks.
Exactly why I laminate.|
Posted by: string on Sep-29-12 4:43 PM (EST)
My two bits|
Posted by: mrmannerz on Sep-25-12 12:41 PM (EST)
1. Pick out a good piece of straight grained wood - I've used spruce, cherry, alder, cedar. I don't usually get my choice of wood type...I buy the best grain available. I wouldn't bother carving a paddle until you find a good piece of wood if I were you. You'll need 5/4 or thicker to avoid having to laminate to get the correct shaft thickness. I've used both tightbond III and gorilla glue for laminating with good results.
Spray vs brush?|
Posted by: kayak_bob on Sep-26-12 10:46 PM (EST)
Thank you all for your inputs!
Go Back to the Top|
Posted by: Kudzu on Sep-29-12 7:34 AM (EST)
mintjulip has the right idea. If you do like he says your paddle will feel right and look right. Just add a little color to a nice wooden paddle. Much better than turning a GP into a big, loud, plastic-feeling, plastic-looking thing.
Here Ya Go|
Posted by: Kudzu on Sep-29-12 12:40 PM (EST)
It's uh... pink. But it doesn't look glossy and plasticky.