Im going to attempt my first canoe trailer and was looking for suggestions and advice on everyone's favorite design and how far apart to put the T's for an allagash 174.
its an old glasclaw boat trailer that i have chosen to be my base. i will post the pics as soon as i get a chance. i still need to get it home and sand it down and put new lights, paint, wheels and bearing on it. so i have a little time to discuss storage and T length and width. for right now it will be for two canoes.
my idea for storage on it right now is truck tool boxes. i purchased 2 side rail boxes and will have 2 of the full size boxes to put on the trailer.
Hardshell Kayak Sail Rigs
1 Canoe/Kayak Trailer
|Table of Contents|
|Messages in this Topic|
Posted by: rnaimo on Mar-11-12 11:15 AM (EST)
Here is some before & after pics of my converted boat trailer made to haul kayaks. The rack is about 5' apart to clear the cockpit of a 12' Pongo. I don't know if that spread will work for canoe's. The rack is removable so I can use the trailer to haul other things.
Posted by: Jeffers on Apr-02-12 2:29 AM (EST)
simple yet effective. i like the storage space you have.i was origanally hoping for something like that but couldnt beat the price of the trailer i got. but so far after new shocks, toolboxes, hubs, paint, lights, rims and tires i think im around $400 and still have some metal to buy and welding work along with a few other odds and ends. i'm actually happy with the price. plus with the work i have done it is really starting to look good imo.
Posted by: old_user on Apr-02-12 3:46 AM (EST)
Rnaimio, trailer looks good. The only reservation I would have is with the lack of triangulation in the pipe frame. I would worry about undue stress on the pipes/ floor flanges in the event of a panic stop with two canoes up. Of course, I haven't seen the trailer loaded and lashed. you may very well have addressed that issue with a stout quatering backstay to the rear of the trailer or, something compleatly different.I don't mean to critacize,just wondering if that is a potential problem. I envy your long reach, I have to fabricate a detachable extension tounge and racks for my fairly short multitasking utility trailer.
have you spoken with your ......|
Posted by: pilotwingz on Apr-02-12 10:43 AM (EST)
Posted by: Jeffers on Apr-02-12 10:09 PM (EST)
in indiana you cannot insure a trailer or its contents so im not worried about the insurance. also on pre 1986 trailers that do not have a vin i had to have a sherrif check out the trailer so i could get a vin number and get a title and license for it. the modifications are not very drastic so i just going this route will be easier.
Some more ideas|
Posted by: redmond on Apr-02-12 12:31 PM (EST)
This is for a kayak carrier but could be used for cannoes. Look around the album for other ideas.
Posted by: rnaimo on Apr-02-12 7:26 PM (EST)
Glazierwood made some great comments about my pipe rack trailer. After the pictures were taken and a couple of trips to the local lake I noticed some back and forward sway in the racks. I attached 2 ratchet tie-down straps to the front and rear of the racks and that helped a lot. I have the rack apart right now for a new paint job on the trailer. I plan on welding the pipe flanges to some larger pieces of steel plate so I can attach the plate to the floor with larger & more bolts through the floor. I will let you know how that works.
Posted by: trout on Apr-03-12 7:31 PM (EST)
...my suggestion is not for a specific distance between supports but i suggest you don't get them too far apart. whether that works out too be 3 ft or whatever, I'm not sure. You don't want them so far apart you have too worry about the center sagging under it's own weight or from a hot Sun or high day temps. the ends you can tie down like they were on a car top carrier.
Posted by: Jeffers on Apr-03-12 11:09 PM (EST)
this is something i havent thought of as far as sagging. what about 3 t's instead of 2? to help support the middle weight or is this a bad idea as it is something i dont usually see.
No need for three supports|
Posted by: guideboatguy on Apr-03-12 11:55 PM (EST)
The only way to make three cross bars work is to make the height of one bar infinitely adjustable. Otherwise there will be no way to insure full contact between the gunwales and all three bars. Not only would no two canoes be completely identical (a gap between one bar and the gunwale of a tiny fraction of an inch is the same eliminating that cross bar), many have so much curvature of the gunwales (as seen from the side view) that you'd need a LOT of bar-height adjustment just to change the support settings between different canoe models.
Posted by: Jeffers on Jan-07-13 2:02 PM (EST)
well just thought i would update since i never did. and now its cold and i want to go canoeing but cant so might as well talk about it.