Glue for aluminum to wood ? - Canoeing / Kayaking

Table of Contents

Glue for aluminum to wood ? - osta.doc - Nov-12-08 7:21 PM
- I would use contact cement - sloopsailor - Nov-12-08 7:34 PM
- Epoxy - bobholtzman - Nov-12-08 7:49 PM
- Why not score the thwart? - Kanoo - Nov-12-08 7:55 PM
- You might consider a urethane glue. - g2d - Nov-12-08 9:48 PM
- Try 3M's 5200 - gulfcoaster - Nov-12-08 10:02 PM
- Just use a sharpie - booztalkin - Nov-12-08 10:26 PM
  - Bing, Bing, Bing! - tktoo - Nov-13-08 10:11 AM
    - yah but - Kanoo - Nov-13-08 11:10 AM
- Why a rigid ruler? - old_user - Nov-12-08 10:47 PM
- How about - CEWilson - Nov-12-08 11:18 PM
  - That is what I had been considering - Jsaults - Nov-13-08 10:01 AM
    - Thank you all - osta.doc - Nov-13-08 11:07 AM
      - contact cement - jjmish - Nov-13-08 12:14 PM

Messages in this Topic

  I would use contact cement
  Posted by: sloopsailor on Nov-12-08 7:34 PM (EST)

The Weldwood in the red can. If you ever want it off there is a remover.. It will take the wood finish too, but it will remove the glue.

If you want something less aggressive 3M Super 77 spray adhesive. its strong but if you try you will probably be able to peel the ruler off.

  Epoxy
  Posted by: bobholtzman on Nov-12-08 7:49 PM (EST)

Use epoxy. If the wood finish (varnish, paint) is in good shape, it should be OK, but sanding down to bare wood would be better.
Another option: drill a couple holes in the ruler and use oval-head wood screws -- stainless steel or bronze.

  Why not score the thwart?
  Posted by: Kanoo on Nov-12-08 7:55 PM (EST)

Just use the ruler to mark it out and build the ruler right into the the thwart itself.

  You might consider a urethane glue.
  Posted by: g2d on Nov-12-08 9:48 PM (EST)

I'm an epoxy fan, but what I have read on the West Epoxy site suggests that aluminum, like copper, may need special treatment for epoxy to hold. Also, urethane glue comes in a nice little bottle and does not need premixing.

  Try 3M's 5200
  Posted by: gulfcoaster on Nov-12-08 10:02 PM (EST)

but be sure to to brush the aluminum with a wheel-brush drill attachment to knock down the aluminum oxide that forms the protective surface on aluminum to make sure it will stick. Do not plan on removing the ruler unless you plan to remove the thwart too.

  Just use a sharpie
  Posted by: booztalkin on Nov-12-08 10:26 PM (EST)

I like Kanoo's idea of scoring, or marking the thwart. You could use a soldering iron to burn in the markings, or just use a permanent marker.

If you are set on gluing the ruler, I think epoxy is a good choice. I have glued aluminum to royalex with good result using JB Weld. But never as long a piece as you probably want to glue. I'd be wary that the two materials (wood and aluminum) will have different stretching properties, and different expansion properties (in response to temperature and humidity changes). Also, if you are sliding the canoe on or off a rack, isn't the ruler going to catch? The more I think about it the more I like Kanoo's idea.

~~Chip

  Bing, Bing, Bing!
  Posted by: tktoo on Nov-13-08 10:11 AM (EST)

-- Last Updated: Nov-13-08 10:14 AM EST --

Sharpie! Fast, cheap, effective, and doesn't permanently alter the boat. A clear winner.

  yah but
  Posted by: Kanoo on Nov-13-08 11:10 AM (EST)

Sharpie is so ugggggly. Pretty wood. In fact, I think he should hire an expert wood carver to inlay an ornate ruler.

Somebody tell "Ed" that he should start selling thwarts with rulers already branded in. All he needs to do is get a branding iron outtta the back o Fine Woodworker and he'll sell to all the canoe fishermen.

Er wait, why am I giving the idea to him? Everyone send me your thwarts and I'll brand a ruler into for $5 + shipping.

  Why a rigid ruler?
  Posted by: old_user on Nov-12-08 10:47 PM (EST)

-- Last Updated: Nov-12-08 11:05 PM EST --

Most any bait shop will have inexpensive and sometimes free adhesive backed waterproof paper rulers because of today's min, max, and slot size limits. Just cut to length, peel off the back paper, and stick it to the top of the thwart. It will conform to tubular, flat, or whatever thwart profile you have. I have a freebie on the aluminum thwart ahead of the stern seat on my kevlar tripper that has given me 8 years of service now. Very handy.

  How about
  Posted by: CEWilson on Nov-12-08 11:18 PM (EST)

Try a couple SS screws.

  That is what I had been considering
  Posted by: Jsaults on Nov-13-08 10:01 AM (EST)

How about a line of brass round-head brads every inch?

Jim

  Thank you all
  Posted by: osta.doc on Nov-13-08 11:07 AM (EST)

This gave me plenty of thoughts to work with. I appreciate everyone that replied. Have a great day....Doc

  contact cement
  Posted by: jjmish on Nov-13-08 12:14 PM (EST)

Epoxy, aqua seal, etc or...

http://img409.imageshack.us/img409/5795/canoesmallce6.jpg

Also mark off your paddle.

	I would use contact cement Posted by: sloopsailor on Nov-12-08 7:34 PM (EST)
	The Weldwood in the red can. If you ever want it off there is a remover.. It will take the wood finish too, but it will remove the glue. If you want something less aggressive 3M Super 77 spray adhesive. its strong but if you try you will probably be able to peel the ruler off.

	Epoxy Posted by: bobholtzman on Nov-12-08 7:49 PM (EST)
	Use epoxy. If the wood finish (varnish, paint) is in good shape, it should be OK, but sanding down to bare wood would be better. Another option: drill a couple holes in the ruler and use oval-head wood screws -- stainless steel or bronze.

	Why not score the thwart? Posted by: Kanoo on Nov-12-08 7:55 PM (EST)
	Just use the ruler to mark it out and build the ruler right into the the thwart itself.

	You might consider a urethane glue. Posted by: g2d on Nov-12-08 9:48 PM (EST)
	I'm an epoxy fan, but what I have read on the West Epoxy site suggests that aluminum, like copper, may need special treatment for epoxy to hold. Also, urethane glue comes in a nice little bottle and does not need premixing.

	Try 3M's 5200 Posted by: gulfcoaster on Nov-12-08 10:02 PM (EST)
	but be sure to to brush the aluminum with a wheel-brush drill attachment to knock down the aluminum oxide that forms the protective surface on aluminum to make sure it will stick. Do not plan on removing the ruler unless you plan to remove the thwart too.

	Just use a sharpie Posted by: booztalkin on Nov-12-08 10:26 PM (EST)
	I like Kanoo's idea of scoring, or marking the thwart. You could use a soldering iron to burn in the markings, or just use a permanent marker. If you are set on gluing the ruler, I think epoxy is a good choice. I have glued aluminum to royalex with good result using JB Weld. But never as long a piece as you probably want to glue. I'd be wary that the two materials (wood and aluminum) will have different stretching properties, and different expansion properties (in response to temperature and humidity changes). Also, if you are sliding the canoe on or off a rack, isn't the ruler going to catch? The more I think about it the more I like Kanoo's idea. ~~Chip

	Bing, Bing, Bing! Posted by: tktoo on Nov-13-08 10:11 AM (EST)
	-- Last Updated: Nov-13-08 10:14 AM EST -- Sharpie! Fast, cheap, effective, and doesn't permanently alter the boat. A clear winner.

	yah but Posted by: Kanoo on Nov-13-08 11:10 AM (EST)
	Sharpie is so ugggggly. Pretty wood. In fact, I think he should hire an expert wood carver to inlay an ornate ruler. Somebody tell "Ed" that he should start selling thwarts with rulers already branded in. All he needs to do is get a branding iron outtta the back o Fine Woodworker and he'll sell to all the canoe fishermen. Er wait, why am I giving the idea to him? Everyone send me your thwarts and I'll brand a ruler into for $5 + shipping.

	Why a rigid ruler? Posted by: old_user on Nov-12-08 10:47 PM (EST)
	-- Last Updated: Nov-12-08 11:05 PM EST -- Most any bait shop will have inexpensive and sometimes free adhesive backed waterproof paper rulers because of today's min, max, and slot size limits. Just cut to length, peel off the back paper, and stick it to the top of the thwart. It will conform to tubular, flat, or whatever thwart profile you have. I have a freebie on the aluminum thwart ahead of the stern seat on my kevlar tripper that has given me 8 years of service now. Very handy.

	How about Posted by: CEWilson on Nov-12-08 11:18 PM (EST)
	Try a couple SS screws.

	That is what I had been considering Posted by: Jsaults on Nov-13-08 10:01 AM (EST)
	How about a line of brass round-head brads every inch? Jim

	Thank you all Posted by: osta.doc on Nov-13-08 11:07 AM (EST)
	This gave me plenty of thoughts to work with. I appreciate everyone that replied. Have a great day....Doc

	contact cement Posted by: jjmish on Nov-13-08 12:14 PM (EST)
	Epoxy, aqua seal, etc or... http://img409.imageshack.us/img409/5795/canoesmallce6.jpg Also mark off your paddle.