Around Baikal 2003

Days 1-6

Day 1 -- June 1, 2003
We paddled out of Bolshoye Goloufpnoye this morning around 8 o'clock. A small party of our new friends gathered at the beach to see us off and wish us well and, to repeat once more, the warnings about the wind. (Yesterday afternoon, Heather and I waked down to the beach where we were to launch. Loose clothes whipping our skin - we recorded the speed at 36 miles per hour.

Nonetheless, we paddled across glass for the first 3 hours today; away from any cabins and roads -- into what we came for -- the Siberian wilderness. Despite our original plan of traveling clockwise around the lake, we learned since arriving here that winds favor the opposite. We are now south of where we started. About half way through the mouth of the Angara - Baikal's only out flowing river. This change benefits us in several ways, aside from keeping predominate winds at our backs. First, the North end of the lake still has ice (water temperatures even this far south is sub-forty). Second, we will be near civilization for the first couple weeks, so there is less pressure to have our food supply nailed down. Lastly, it gives us more time to get in shape for what we've learned is the crux: the cliff just north of B.G. Stretching north to Olkhon Island.

We are sticking to our plan of a conservative approach early on, by following closely to contours of the mountainous shoreline. And, staying ready to be off the water instantly if the need arises. Today it builds "gradually" -- by 11 a.m. a north wind began churning up swells and within 15 minutes we were surfing 2 foot waves. After 13 miles we called it a day -- on the water -- but, not in the water: Heather "broke the ice" and paid homage to Baikal with a baptismal plunge! (Shouting all the way, "this one's for Kelly!")

Around Baikal Expedition has officially begun!!

Location: N 51 degrees, 54.661' E 105 degrees, 11.169'

Day 3 -- June 3, 2003
Each day Baikal has been like a mirror, the dips of our paddles and our trailing wakes the only signs of activity. And each day a wind, either ice cold from across the water or warm from the bordering mountains, has torn Baikal into chaos. In the course of an hour both may come and go 6 times and from all directions. From our camp last night we watched a north wind push waves like a river from left to right. Half hour later, waves just as fierce flowed from right to left as far as the eye could see. "Dynamic" doesn't begin to describe this landscape.

In spite of the rapid changes, we've made a steady 20 miles or so each day, and have found beautiful, private camps. Private, that is, if the roar of a passing train in the night doesn't count as an intrusion. This entire section of Baikal is bordered by railroads with countless tunnels run through the steep, forested mountains. We've taken to after-dinner treks along the rails and into the long, cave-like corridors. (I think we're already looking back on our Trans-Siberian Rail journey with fond memories.)

As I finish writing this now, a train is rumbling by just behind us, and there's a 100 meter strip of glassy water running along the rocky shore in front. Beyond that, a wind is starting to churn up some action!

Location: N 51 degrees 44' 28.3" E 104 degrees 16' 59.1" Halfway between the Angara and Baikal's southern end.

Day 6 -- June 6, 2003
On Day 5 we hit our first major milestone -- the southern most point of Baikal. After a food buy in the town of Fludyanka, photos and high fives, we headed north to our next milestone…the Baikalsk Pulp and Paper Miill.

For over a year I have been seeing pictures of the mill in Baikalsk. It was created during World War II to create "super cellulose" for aircraft tires. Sixty years later it is still active, though now it produces rayon for clothing.

We paddled quickly past Baikalsk, hungry for the solitude of the North. But, on our way out of town, we were bombarded by Louis Armstrong, signing "What a Wonderful World," to a techno-beat.

We couldn't resist meeting the Russians whose car it was blaring from. So, we pulled to the side and shouted, "Zbrazdgidye." "Hello" a voice called back. Four Russians came to greet us - two of them speaking English -- a rare treat out here -- and, one wearing a Tahoe recycling shirt. He turned out to be a good friend of our man Hank from BG. Hank, greetings to you from Zhenya in Baikal.

Location: N 51 degrees, 29' 57.5" E 104 degrees, 14' 51.1" (just East of Baikal)

Read more about the journey in the introduction