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Submitted: 10-18-2012 by TLP
I've had my KAOS for 15 years. Regarding the commentary about the seat position etc, at 200 lbs, in medium to large surf in FL (6') when trying to catch the wave, I put my feet as far forward as possible, bending my legs to get the nose down and the tail up. This allows maximum speed to catch the swell. Once the wave picks me up and I'm moving, I straighten my legs and get my weight all the way back, leaning back as far as possible to keep the nose up at the bottom of the wave, avoiding stuffing the bow. With this maneuver, I can move the pitch of the boat by over a foot. I find this to be an essential survival move as if I was in a fixed position, I'd surely eat the beach. (Which I've done). After that, I drag right or left, executing a series of cutbacks to stay close to the pocket or get launched off the lip. Regarding bruises or lost skin, if you don't like pain, don't try surfing.
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